Trekking the West-Highland-Way, peninsula knoydart

The West Highland Way (WHW) is the most popular hiking trail in Scotland. It runs from the lowlands to the highlands, beginning at the northern outskirts (Milngavie) of Scotland´s largest City Glasgow and ending 95 miles at the capital of the West Highlands "Fort William". The route pass along Scotland´s biggest lake "Loch Lomond", it cross high moor land and many mountains are dominating the scenery at the end including the highest British mountain "Ben Nevis".

Timings	Sections	Going there	Coming back	Time to Travel	Weather	Midges	BagCarryingService
Accommodation	Food	Maps/Signs	Monster	Scottish Issues	Munros/Broch	Tartan/Clans	Golf
Whiskey	some Gaelic	other trails	Links

Timings
It is an easy walk for seven to eight days; you can do it in five to six days without baggage. The road follows mostly ancient trading and military roads, but sometimes it is led on forest footpaths up to hills to spectacular viewpoints. Calculate with two miles per hour by carrying a backpack. The hardest part of the WHW is at Loch Lomond between Inversnaid and Invararnan, where the trail is going up and down through boulders along the steep shore of Loch Lomond. The last parts of the WHW are more spectacualr then the first parts.
For a prolonged weekend you can go by bus (discount tickets at the internet) to Bridge of Orchy or Kingshouse and walk the last two/three parts of the trail to Fort William. Or start in Milganvy and go as far you come in your limited time.
The WHW offers some beautiful sceneries also in the first stages, for example the view from Conic Hill. One of the advantages of the WHW are it's different sceneries. So I would prefer to walk the WHW complete. I wouldn't recommend to walk it vice versa either.
Train stations: Milngavie, Crainlarich, Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy, Fort William
citylink bus: Glasgow, Westufer Loch Lomond, Crainlarich, Tyndrum, Kingshouse Hotel (stop is at White Corries Ski Center)
There are sometimes much cheaper ticket on the internet citylink.co.uk .
local buses: Kinlochleven - Fort William, Glasgow-Balmaha (and other suburbs of Glasgow)
so there are many parts of the WHW connected with public transport

Stages

Day1 Day2 Day3 Day4 Day5 Day6 Day7 Day8

Accommodation B&B is only mentioned, if they charge no more than 20 Pounds for a single room. Feedback is welcome.

1st. day Glasgow - Drymen -12 miles-
In Glasgow-Milngavie the WHW starts at the pyramid in the center. The way is well signposted from the railway station. There is a supermarket "Tesco" in a two minute walk distance from the station. Turn left and pass the car repair shop "Kri Kri". After that there are only very small shops along the WHW.

The WHW traverse park-like woods, and cross the path to castle Mudock, which is one mile distant from the WHW. After passing a road you arrive to the small Loch Craigallan. After following the B 821, you right, a little downhill to Dumgoyance, where firstly a scenery of highlands emerge. An old volcanoe sit enthroned at the banks of the valley. Soon you will see on the right "Dumgoyance Standing Stones" that are dated back to the Bronze Age. At Dumgyane pub the first seven miles are made. After that the WHW zigzags more boring to the A 81. In Killearn, - 1 mile distant - are some shops and Bed and Breakfast. After crossing the A 81 is crossed for the second time and the footpath ends at a private campground, a fee is here required. You climb up the bridge and walk to the left two miles further to Drymen on a paved road. Some minute walk to Drymen and the WHW turns to the right at the bridge. For staying overnight in Drymen, you better go straight on into the village. In Drymen, that means small mountain ridge, is the eldest pub of Scotland from 1734 A.D.

In Glengoyne can a Whisky distillery be visited.
Who wanted to camp, should stay -as a hiker has recommended- at the Easter Drumquhassle Farm, because the free wild camping place, 7 km further on behind the Garadhban Forest shouldn't exist anymore, after a wind hose had taken away some forest there.

Accommodation in Drymen
Frances Lander, 17 Stirling Road, 01360-660273: landerbandbdrymen.co.uk,   18-25 Pfund offers also free boat trips
Margret Bolzicco, 8 Old Gartmore Road Tel. 01360 660566
Betty Robb, Ceardach Gartness Road, Tel. 01360 660596
Julia Cross, Gartness Road, Easter Drumquhassle Farm, B&B, Camping und Wigwam Tel.01360 660893 http://members.aol.com/juliamacx,

2nd. Day Drymen- Rowardennan 14 miles / 22,5 km
After leaving Drymen along the A 811 the WHW turnes left through the "Garadhban Forest". It is not typical a Scotish Forest, means a forest with indigenous vegetation, ecologists therefore call these woods also "plantations". Don´t miss to turn right in Garadhban forest to Conic Hill. Conic Hill is the wonderful viewpoint over Loch Lomond. Four weeks in April/May the Conic Hill section is closed due to lamb season; you have to take the signed alternative route to Balmaha. In Balmaha there is a bunk bed accommodation (bed in shared rooms) to a record price of 13,50 Pounds without breakfast (5 Pounds). Some minute walk there was a friendly Bed and Breakfast, who charged me 20 Pounds .
Accomodation in Balmaha:
Balhalma Bunkbed Lodge: Tel. 01360 660008 18,50 Pound includes breakfast.
Bed and Breakfast: passfoot.com, Email: passfoot@aol.com or conicview.co.uk,
From Balmaha the path ascend to a small summit and turns down along the shore of Loch Lomond. Some nice beaches invite to swim in the very cold lake, but it is not recommended. If you camp, do it at the latest till Millarrochy or walk through to Rowardennan. The WHW follows the street, passes moorland and forest. In Rowardennan is a Youth Hostel, also an Luxury Hotel and a ferry to Inverbeg. If you have time and the weather is fine, you can climb "Ben Lomond", but walking 3 miles and climbing up more than 3000 feet is very tough.
Accommodation in Rowarddenan
Youth Hostel 12 Pound Tel. 01360 870259
or Hotel: rowardennanhotel.com,   but more than 85 Pound per room!!
Ferry:
from Rowardennan to Inverbeg in Summer at 10 a.m, 2 p.m., 5.30 p.m. back from Inverbeg to Rowardennan at 10.30 a.m , 2.30 p.m , 6.00 p.m.

3rd. Day Rowardennan to Inverarnan 14 miles /22,5 km
Loch Lomond click to enlarge
I was a bit disappointed. From Rowardennan to Inversnaid the WHW runs only on a road through forest. There is one viewpoint and not more to see from Loch Lomond.
Alternative: some recommended me to go up to Ben Lomond and walk along the mountain ridge above the forest line with views to Loch Lomond. There is no path, but should be more interesting!
In Inversnaid are no more buildings than an Hotel (room from 30 Pound). There is a free campsite some minutes walk further. The path always ascends and descends between boulders you have to climb over. Very strenuous and no spectacular views across the lake. This changes at the end of the "Loch", the scenery widens and gives more to see. There is a passenger ferry at Ardlui/Ardlesh. The path climbs smoothly across fens up to a hill of 537 feet, from where you have a great view back to Loch Lomond and the small island " I Vow". One mile further in Inverarnan the WHW cross the Beinglass Farm, which has a restaurant, a small shop, a campsite, bunk beds in wigwams ( 9 Pounds). I made a rest and had some drinks in the restaurants. In the toilets of the restaurant are also the showers for the campsite. In Inverarnan nearby are some pricey Bed and Breakfast. If you have enough power to walk, it is only six miles more to Crianlarich. Inverarnan has a bus connection to Glasgow and Fort William.
Accommodation in Inverarnan
Beinglass Farm   Email: beinglas.campsite@virgin.net Tel. 01301 704281

4th. Day    Inverarnan to Crianlarich 7 miles /11,5 km
The WHW runs on an old military road parallel to the A 82 and the railroad. It is a pleasant walk, not spectacular but gradually begins the West Highland scenery. After crossing the A 82 you can see a farm. Behind the farm in the distance is a forest, where you turn right and descend for twenty minutes to Crianlarich. Crianlarich has a Youth Hostel, a shop, train station, bus stop, some bed and breakfast and a pub. Try a Scottish meal in the pub and eat "Haggis, Neeps and Tatties".
Accomodation in Crianlarich
Crainlarich Youth Hostel, 12 Pound Tel. 01838 300260 (was recommended but you should prebook in July/August)
Bed und Breakfast, next houses after the pub. I was charged 20 Pound as a single walker ( 35 Pound for a couple).

5th Day   Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy 14 miles/22,5 km
Munroe click to enlarge
You have to go back to the branch off to Crianlarich. The WHW runs through forest for 2,5 miles and cross the A 82 for 1,5 miles. There are some wigwam and other accommodation at some farms on the way to Tyndrum. Tyndrum (6 miles) has a bigger tourism infrastructure. There is a tourist office, some bed and breakfast, restaurants, train and bus station and a shop. A bunk bed accommodation was planned for 2003.
Bunk-Bed Accommodation: in Tyndrum: tyndrumbytheway.com,
After Tyndrum the WHW follows on the old military road the same line as the A 82, passing the Bein Odhear (2948 feet) and the dominant Munro "Bein Dorain" ( 3524 feet).
In Bridge of Orly are a hotel with pub and restaurant, bunk bed accomodation (13 pounds) and a free campsite at the river across the A 82, whichshould be very windy.
There are busses ( 8:52, 12:24, 15:24, 20:04 Glasgow) and trains to Glasgow and Fort of William.
Accomodation in Bridge of Orchy
Bridge of Orchy Hotel with Bunkhouse tel. 01838 400208 scottish-selection.co.uk,    info@bridgeoforchy.co.uk
The West Highland Way Sleeper Tel. 01838 400208 westhighlandwaysleeper.co.uk,     info@westhighlandwaysleeper

6. Day   Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse 13 miles/21 km
Loch Tulla click to enlarge
The WHW climbs on footpath through forest for one mile to a great viewpoint above Loch Tulla and descend to Hotel Inveroran. After passing the Invoran Hotel you find some free campsites at the river. After that you will walk on the old miltiary road for eight miles above moor land and pass some highland hills. The landscape of the moor has a great value and you shouldn´t camp for saving the nature, also the soil is too wet for camping!
After ascend to a low hill you decend to Kingshouse Hotel across the A 82. There is a free campsite at the river, you can drink and eat at the restaurant. Accommodation in the Hotel costs 30 Pounds (single and 52 Pounds double).
It is recommended to make a side trip to Glen Coe from here. The city link bus takes you there (but 8 Pounds). Als the dirver to let you out at the Red Squirrel Campsite. Follow the small road across the main road to a wonderful camping place.
You will pass Clachaig Inn, where hikers and mountaineers meet. Evenings there should be having a lot of fun.

7. Day   Kingshouse to Kinlochleven   8-9miles/14 km
Kingshouse Devils Staircase Peak click to enlarge
The road goes sometimes parallel to the road and then turns to the right up the "Devils Staircase" to the saddle of the mountain.
The highest point of the WHW is situated on the top, it is steep, but not as hard as it sounds. Then you descend slowly until you reach Kinlochleven, which is situated nicely at a lake. Before the town is a powerplant, where you pass the blackwater hostel. In town there are after Tyndrum again shops and a lot of bed and breakfasts.
After climbing the ascent behind Kinlochleven at a small waterfall (~ 45 min) it is used for wild camping there.
Accommodation: blackwaterhostel.co.uk, bunk bed, campsite. The Mc.Donald Hotel has a nice situated camping place.

Bus from Kinlochleven to Glen Coe - Fort William A 82 rapsons.co.uk, Tel. 01397 702373
(7.38; 8:53,9:53,11:38, 13:38,16:38; 18:10; 18:38 GlenCoe; 20:08, 23:23
-Bus takes 17min. to Glen Coe and 52 minutes to Fort William) Connection to Glasgow at Glen Coe: 8:14, 11:50, 14:50, 19:28

8. Day   Kinlochleven to Fort William 14 miles/22,5 km
Ruine Ben Nevis Ende click to enlarge
Again you have to ascend for an hour through forests. You have superb views back to Kinlochleven until you leave the old military road which you follow for seven kilometers. It is one of the most pretty parts of the WHW. You pass two ruins, and then the road makes a bend to the right and forests arrive. In 2007 the forests there were cut down for reforesting. Five miles before Fort William is a crossing where you can take a shorter way to Fort William. But I wouldn't take that road, as you ascent after the crossing a small hill, where is a good idea for camping with great views to Ben Nevis and the surroundings. The last three to four miles is going through forests until you reach the motorway to Fort William. At the beginning of the town is the sign of the end of the WHW. If you want to go to the Fort William Backpackers follow the road for 600 m and the Alma road turns to the left.
Fort William is the largest (but small) town in this area, a busy tourist center and the Capital of the West Highlands. You found much accomodation, but it could be crowded in summer. A train runs four times to Glasgow and a sleeper at the evening. There are also buses to Glasgow, which are cheaper.
Accommodation:
Fort Williams Backpackers 13 Pound, Alma Road, scotlandstophostels.com, tel. 01397 700 711,
Calluna: fortwilliamholiday.co.uk, 12 Pfund, Heathercroft,
Bank Street Lodge: bankstreetlodge.co.uk, 12-20 Pounds, Bank Street, 01397 700 070,
If you have time you can climb "Ben Nevis", the highest British mountain.
Bus from Fort William to Glasgow (3 hours) 7:45, 11:20, 14.20, 19:00 citylink.co.uk, Tel. 08705 505050
In summer 2007    7:00, 9:00, 11:00 ...
Busses are also going to the Isle of Sky 10:00, 14:00,18:40 3hrs
Train at 17:40 to Glasgow
If you want to walk further on. In Fort William starts the Great Glen Trail (67 miles/ 95 km) along Loch Ness to Inverness. BUt it is said to be a bit boring,a s it should go mostly through forests.

to the top

Fort William around
Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis
Many people ascend the highest Britain mountain, the "Ben Nevis" (1446 m). It is well signposted and takes 4-5 hrs up and about 3 hrs. down. At the big of June it was really cold and there was many snow on the top! Take adequate gear with you. There should be more fatal accidents than at the Mt.Everest every year. Be careful!
Great Glen Trail
In Fort William also starts the "Great Glen Trail" ( 67 miles/ 95 km ) leading to Inverness by passing Loch Ness first. Should be rather boring as you see mostly forests.
Glen Coe
very nice area with great hiking opportunities.
Loch Ness and Inverness
with monster "Nessie!" and picturesque castle some km before Inverness. Another castle is in Inverness city.
Glen Afric
another gorgious valley with really nice situated Youth hostel.
Isle of Skye
is recommended by all people I met. Take the train to Mallaig and then the ferry.
West Coast
should be worth a visit with green mountains, bleu sea and white sands. East and North coast seemed to be contrarly rather boring.

to the top

Hiking on the peninsula Knoydart - Scottlands last wilderness!
Knoydart (Delta Barisdale- view from the mountain ridge) click to enlarge
someone had recommended me to hike to Barisdale at the peninsula Knoydart and this recommendation was superb! the hike lasted 5 hrs and at the end of the delta a bunkbed accommodation was waiting, somehow very simple and not much comfortable, but a wonderful scenery and a roof on top! It is counted as the last wilderness of Scotland, where are many deers which are hunted by tourists and local hunters.
Getting there and back
Potter Bridge before Glennfinnan click to enlarge
take the train from Fort William to Mallaig in 1,5 hrs. (from 8:00, 12:30 ...) it is a train ride through gorgeous scenery! At first the train pass the "Neptune's Staircase", with eight locks Caledonial Canal clims 64 feets. Before Glennfinnian, the train overpass the old bridge, which became famous from the Harry Potter films.
In Mallaig is the small port opposite of the rail station. There is a boat to Inverie at Knoydart half an hour after/before the arrival/depart of the train (10:15/14.15 and back at 11:00/15:00 - 9 pounds, 17 pounds roundtrip, knoydart-ferry.co.uk ).
At saturdays or sundays are no ferry, but you might ask in the pub, if a boat is going. The charter is 60 Pounds shared by the passengers. So dont ask for a boat, but if a boat is runnning.
The map is No 33 Ordnance Survey /7,50 Pounds, sold for example at the information center in Fort William. But you can find the path easily from this description.
Inverie
"The Old Forge" click to enlarge
There are some BB's, both also simple/cheaper and more luxuary and some bunkbeds. "The Old Forge" is the most remoted pub from civilisation in Britain. There is also a restaurant and an information center of Knoydart with internet nearby.
To Barisdale:
Burial mound with cross "bunkbeds" click to enlarge
in Inverie pass the "Old Forge" and walk along the shore. You will pass the church and after some hundred meters a way is branching off to Strathan, a green sign epdicts the direction. You follow this way and after some meters you have to pass a gate, which is to open and close behind you. Don't turn the bend to the left! You walk along a wall of a park and pass a plain area, cross through a forest and after the forest you will see a hill, where is on top a burial mound with a big cross.The duke of Knoydart had built this memorial in memory to his father. After passing the burial mound you will see the saddle you have to ascend in the far distance. You arrive at a lake first, where is a wonderful very small sandy beach, but the water is rather cold. The extended road stops there and leads into a narrow and often muddy path. It is a strenous climbing of about 1-2 hours, but you have a superb view from the saddle to both sides. From there it is descending for about an hour to the delta of Barisdale, there is in the delta at first the "White House", a more luxuary B&B. The bunkbed accomodation is coming about 500m after the White House. You are obliged to pay 3 pounds for staying overnight in a box (1 Pound for camping). I was alone there, but often people gets there. Annoying is the motor of the generator for the White House, which is running at the bunkbed hut all the day, except when it is turned off only from 0.30 to 7 a.m. .
to the top

Links: road-to-the-isles.org.uk/knoydart.html, knoydart-foundation.com,

Going there:
Glasgow
Flights: Ryanair flies from London Stanstead to Glasgow-Prestwick. The airport has a train connection to Glasgow (40 minutes). You can buy your ticket in the train and you got (in 2003) a discount of 50% by showing the Ryanair booking confirmation (2,70 pounds to Milngavanie). At Glasgow Central Station or Queens Station (10 minutes walk) you have to take one of the suburb trains to Milngavanie.

Some Scottish issues

Monsters :
It is not far from Fort William to Loch Ness. Nessie was sightet there more than 1664 times. Don´t feed the Nessies or swim in the Loch. Some bones of a prehistoric Plesiosaur was recently found at Loch Ness. The plesiosaur is the image people have of Nessie. But the bones were older than Loch Ness itself..
The Chinese equivalent of the Monster of Loch Ness lives in Lake Tianchi /Changbai Mountains in China near the border to North of Korea. The buffalo like monsters are appearing sporadic as singles or in groups for more than hundred years.

Munros
Munro
Munros are mountains above 3000 feet (app. 1000 meters). It is named after a mountaineer Mr. Munro, who was the first, who wanted to climb all Scotish monutains about 3000 feet. There are 284 munros in Scotland. Sometimes you need mountaineering experience to climb a munroe. For some Scottish sportsmen it is a challenge to climb all munros, the record is doing it in 76 days.

Broch
are old Scotish defence buildings, but only ruinis are remained today: brochbuild.co.uk,

Tartans und Clans
Tartans are the checked pattern of the kilts, the Scotish skirts for men. The colour and patter of the tartans were the distinctive marks of the old Scotch clans. Clans (Celtic clann=children) were social units with own administration and legislation with a "chief" as leader of the clan. After the battle of Culloden in 1746 the clans were abolished and the tartans were forbidden. Many clan tartans were lost and new clan tartans were created after the ban was cancelled. Beside clan tartans there are also military-, district- and royal tartans.
Here you can find all about tartans and a tartan finder: house-of-tartan.scotland.net/house/tfinder.htp,

Whisky
Scottish Whisky is famous and there are a lot of distilleries open for visitors. But Scots buy their Whisky abroad, Scottish Whisky is cheaper in other countries because of the high taxes of alcohol in Scotland.
maltwhiskytrail.com ,
tullibardine.com, a Whisky distillery, where you can visit the distillery (2 Pound), taste and buy Whiskey
whisky-heritage.co.uk, (Museum Edinburg),

some Gaelic
Welcome: Fàilte (faal-tche), Good Day: Lahta math (la-a mah),
How are you: Ciamar a tha thu? (kim-ar-a hoa oo) Very well, Thank you : Tha gu math, tapadh leibh (haa gu maa, tap a leev)
Goodbye: beannachd leibd (be ann-ochk leev) I love you: Tha gaol agam ort (ha geel akam orsht)

some Scottish issues
I was told: never call a Scot "English"! Scotland also has a national football team. Many Scots don't cheer to the England team but to the opponent team, whoever it is!
Glasgow is the biggest town of Scotland with 650.000 inhabitants. App. 70 % are Catholics. There are catholic and protestant suburbs. Affiliation of confession should have more meaning in Scotland than in Germany. Glasgow Rangers has predominantly protestantic and Celtic Glasgow catholic devotees. Glasgow people often say, they are more open minded than people from Edinburgh.

Golf:
Scotland is the origin of the Golf sport. "The Royal and Ancient Golf Club St. Andrews ", founded in 1754, administer till this day the golf game world wide in conjunction with the US Golf Association. Nowhere are more golf courses meted per inhabitants than in Scotland. Even as a beginner you can play a round of golf and the green fees are often low compared to other countries (except of the more famous golf courses).

other long distance trails

Great Glen Trail (67 miles/ 95 km) along Loch Ness to Inverness

Speyside Way 77 km / Tugnet (Spey) -Tomintoul (Cairngorns)

Southern Upland Way 339 km, 16 days Portpatrick- Cockburnspath (Coast to Coast) southernuplandway.com,

Rob Roy Way 7 days, 127/148 km 79/92 miles Drymen- Pitlochry robroyway.fsnet.co.uk,

Links:
West-Highland-Way
Official Sides
west-highland-way.co.uk, Tourism Site
walkinginscotland.org, another great side
westhighlandwayrace.org,

Great Glen Trail	(67 miles/ 95 km)	along Loch Ness to Inverness
Speyside Way	77 km /	Tugnet (Spey) -Tomintoul (Cairngorns)
Southern Upland Way	339 km, 16 days	Portpatrick- Cockburnspath (Coast to Coast)	southernuplandway.com,
Rob Roy Way	7 days, 127/148 km 79/92 miles	Drymen- Pitlochry	robroyway.fsnet.co.uk,