When to go?

The monsoon is from June to end of September. The best time for trekking is October to November. In winter it is very dry and you can see the mountain very clear, but in upper regions there is snow and it is very, very cold during the night. Good trekking conditions are from March to May, also the best time to climb the Mt. Everest ;-).

How much time you need?

Two  weeks (without time to go and leave) is enough to do the Jonsom Trek,  the Chitwan National Park and the Kathmandu Valley in a fast way. You have more time to relax and enjoy the sights, if you have one or two weeks more. Add one more week for hiking the Annapurna Circuit. One month time is enough to try the Mt. Everest trek, but don't miss your plane in Kathmandu. The time depends also on your luck to get a flight to and from Lukla.

Budget:

The flight ticket from Frankfort to Kathmandu via Bahrain costed 650 Dollar. The Nepal government was charging another app. 100 Dollar for Visa, trekking permit, departure tax etc (2002). On a low budget you can calculate with only 10 to 20 Dollars a day.

Trekking, which Trek?

Trekking in Nepal is very comfortable tea house hiking. There is no hard climbing. You hike from village to village on mule paths and you can stopp off in guests houses everywhere in the villages, who live from hiking tourism. The accommodation is not luxurious, you might miss steaks for lunch or a fancy bathroom with hot showers, but everything else, also beer, is available. 

Only the more known treks are listed: 

Mount Everest Base Camp Trek:
This trek needs more than three weeks and you must be in good physical condition to master all the ups and downs. You can't see the Mt. Everest from the Mt. Everest Base camp, but from nearby Kala Patar (5.550m). You must consider problems with the altitude sickness (look under the health section). The Mt. Everest area is more remote than the Annapurna region, therefore the prices are double to triple for accommodation and food (which is still affordable). Going to and returning by plane or helicopter from Lukla is possible but also risky if you are short on time. Because of the changing weather conditions and the high demand of flights from organized groups particulary in the peak season, flights are overbooked and often cancelled. You must calculate more than 8 days hiking starting from and returning to Jiri, the last place that can be reached by car or bus.

Helambu-Langtang Trek
starts near Kathmandu, offers many variations and is not as overcrowded as the treks in the Annapurna region. It is also suitable for beginners, but the scenery and the Tibetan culture is better in the Annapurna region.

Annapurna Region
The favourite of first visitors to Nepal. The treks are easy accessible, developed, not difficult, but also a little crowded in peak season (but not in late November 2002).

 
Jonsom-Muktinah Trek 7-10 days
This was my trek Easy. The favourite if you have less than three weeks time. Look here.

Annapurna Circuit  2-3 weeks 
was the recommended standard trek for everyone. Now there is a new road abpove the pass in construction, which should make the trekking there not anymore recommended!
Getting there by bus to Dumre and then change one of the many bus to Besisahar, which is no problem. The crossing of the pass Thorung La (5.416 m) could be (only a little) hard. Because of the dangers of altitude sickness you better go anti-clockwise. Its last part follows the Jonsom-Muktinah-Trek, also this trek more strenuous.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek 10 days
You can go this trek before the Jonsom-Muktinah Trek (start is Phedi) or afterwards the Annapurna Circuit (branch off for and at Gorepani)

Short treks  3-6 days
There are some short treks from Pokhara. You can go from Naya Pool to Gorepani (see Jonsom Muktinah trek) in one long day. You need one more long day from Gorepani to Gandruk and one more long day from Gandruk to Phedi. Add one more day in Gorepani to relax. You can also walk in one day from Phedi to Gandruk and in one day back to Naya Pool. Think of recovery time!

Organized or individual tours

To go at your own saves money and you have no trouble. Most Nepali speak some English, communication is not a problem, going around is cheaper and easier than in Europe.

Today the officials are thinking of banning individual (means cheap) trekking, so you could be forced to take a trekking company. But nothing is sure nowadays (2007!) 

If you book an organized trip from Europe, you could be sure that all goes well. You may have more fun in a group than travelling alone, but you have to pay more than twice. You learn more of the way things happen in Nepal, if you have to organize your trip for yourself, but on the other side on a package tour you have a guide, who could explain a lot of things.

I advised booking an organized tour in Kathmandu. You cant be sure that you get a serious company. It's possible that the guide has to ask the local people for the way. I booked a sight seeing tour in Kathmandu and was really disappointed. The tour was scheduled for nine, but started at eleven. They skipped important sights (Boudha) and there was only half an hour time for visiting the Pagan Square or Swayambuh. The guide collected  the admission fees, but smuggled people without ticket (which was valid for one week) into the sights.

Be aware that every hotel manager tries to sell you organized trips (because of the commission). Don't do this, don't believe information there is no bus and don't believe faked mails. If you want independent information, ask other travellers or the waiter in the restaurant, where you eat by giving a generous tip. Hotel Manager offered me a trip to Nargakot and Bhaktapur for 50 Dollar. I paid less than 1 Dollar to the bus stop by Rikshah, less than 1 Dollar to go to and return from Nargakot and Bhaktapur and less than 5 Dollars for a night staying in a Hotel in Nargakot. The trip by myself with food and beverage costed me less than 10 Dollars.

 

Visa; Entry and Departure at Kathmandu Airport:
You need a passport which is valid for more than six months. The visa is bought at the airport (30 Dollars) and you need a pass photo (thumbnail). A photograph makes it for 5 Dollar. Consider that you need one more photo for the trekking permit. You can change money at the visa desk. Taxi drivers take also Dollars to a reasonable exchange rate, you can change money then at an exchange booth in Thamel (backpacker and hotel district). You can change money also in the departure hall of the Airport (only some meters from the exit). There were no ATMs.

Toots are waiting in front of the airport for offering you Hotels in Thamel. I paid 6 dollars for the Hotel and 1 dollar for the taxi, it is a good idea to bargain the taxi fare, if you don't like the hotel. They also take you to your hotel of your choice for 2 Dollars. I think it is not worth to mention other means to get to your Hotel for the first day. After that the hotel manager invites you drinking tea and selling you organized trips (see the chapter there).

A departure tax (only in Rupees) of 1.100 RS (December 02) was levied for international flights. Ask the actual price in Kathmandu before you leave. If you have a receipt, you can change Rupees back to Dollars at the Airport. Batteries in the hand luggage are confiscated at the check in.

If you have left Nepal to India your visa expires. You have to pay an entrance visa fee of 50 Dollars, when you return to Nepal within one year. This should be considered, if you want to visit India via Kathmandu.

 

Money:

1 Euro or 1 Dollar was 77 Rupees in December 2002. Link for the rate today: oanda.com
There are a lot of exchange booths in Thamel, Pokhara and in Tourist areas, but only a few ATMs. I didn't see any ATMs for EC-cards, I saw only Visa or American Express. Traveller checks in Dollars are the best choice, they gave the same exchange rate as for cash. You can use the traveller checks for the next holiday. 

 

Accommodation

Low Budget hotels in Thamel charged about 3-6 Dollars in late November, but  there was an oversupply of rooms. More known hotels like the "Tibetan Guest House" charge much more. The rooms are simple, mostly clean but often haywire especially in the bathroom. You have to bring your own towels and loo-paper, which is not included in cheaper hotels and they don' t change sheets. For that change to the next Hotel around the corner. Bring your own lightweight sleeping bag with you.

On the Jonsom Muktinah Trek I paid only 1-2 Dollar, but there was also much more capacity as demand, sometimes I was the only guest. You usually dine at your hotel and I paid in total include food and beverage from 8-12 Dollar (without beer 2 Dollar each).  In the Mt. Everest area calculate with double to triple the price.

These prices might increase in high season and when more travellers are visiting Nepal after the civil war has been ended hopefully in future.

Transport:

Flights
A link to domestic airlines nepalvista.com/cat/airlines.html,

Busses:
Tourist buses to Pokhara (around 4 Dollar) leave at Kantipath, which is on the opposite side of the King Palace, at 6 to 8 a.m. For going to Bhaktapur the local busses leave at the crossing  "Durbar Marg/ Bagbazar" (near the water monument "Rani Pokhri") every ten to thirty minutes. The fare of 9 Ruppies is paid in the bus! The ride takes one hour. For Nargakot you have to change the bus at the terminal in Bhaktapur (one more hour, 10 Rupees). Be aware of your luggage on the roof of the bus, especially when going to Jiri.

Taxi
Was also rather cheap. Fare to the airport from Thamel (7 km) was 200 Rupees (2,70 Dollar). Negotiate the price, the use of taximeter is not common or the taximeter could be fudged. Rikshas are only slightly cheaper; use them better for small distances.

Rental cars
Forget it! Hiring a taxi for a day is mostly cheaper.

Dangers
Nepal is a safe country for travelling. As everywhere you have to be careful for your belongings. Nepal people are in general honest. Though people are poor, there is no enhanced risk of theft. Violent crimes are very rare.Woman travelling is not a problem.  I met some and haven't heard any problems because of harassment. .

There was a civil war in Nepal the last years. People, who call themselves "Maoists", want to bear down the King and the government. They fight for more justice, but commit terror acts on governmental institutions for reaching their goal. The terror includes menacing teachers of private schools (because they teach rich people) and local people, who refuse to cooperate. Some thousand peoples are killed by terror acts of the Maoists up to now. The Maoists control already some parts of the country. The Maoists do not fight tourism, what they have declared assertively. Robberies in remote areas were reported, which were committed by people, who pretend to be "Maoists". Sometimes there were strikes in Nepal. Nothing happens on a strike. You hardly find a bus or taxi, because it is dangerous for the drivers to point out as a strike breaker.
Today there is a ceasefire, but inform yourself about the political situation first!

In remote areas - also at the Jonsom Trek -  the only way to get to a hospital is by plane or helicopter, which could be difficult and is very expensive at all events. Health insurance, which cover rescue work is very recommendable. If you have serious health problems, you can visit the Kathmandu Valley, but  trekking is not recommendable. In Kathmandu are hospitals on European standards, which might be better than some hospitals in the European Province. Medical help is offered in Jonsom on the Jonsom-Muktinah Trek. The trek leads mainly through inhabited areas, telephone is available (but not for sure in other remote areas of Nepal) and you certainly won't be the lonely trekker on the Himalayan trekking race course. Nepali people and other trekkers will help you for sure. In peak season there are thousands of European trekkers, who run the Jonsom-Muktinah Trek or the Annapurna Circuit.

Your embassy cares only in political situations, hardly if you have other problems, even if they are serious. I think it is not their duty to chaperone ordinary trekking tourism. You have generally to arrange with the conditions of the country you are visiting without help of your embassy.

Food

"Daal Bhat" click on picture to enlarge

..... cook shop  click on picture to enlarge

Beer is rather expensive (2 Dollar a bottle), soft drinks like Coke very cheap (30 cent). The price in the shop is the same as in the restaurant. You have a choice of teas always served with milk, if you donut order "black" (the same for coffee). Mustang coffee is coffee made with brandy.

 some recipes:  http://asiarecipe.com/nepinfo.htm, www.food-nepal.com,

Communication
Many Nepali understand some English. Communication is no problem. Apart from Nepali there are some other local languages like Newar.

Health

Vaccination/Malaria
You need a Hepatitis-A vaccination, and the standard European immunization (Tetanus etc.) but not Hepatitis-B (you get only by exchange of blood, contaminated needles and unprotected sex). There is no Malaria in the Kathmandu Valley or in the Himalayas. The risk in the Chitwan National Park is pretty low, especially in the dry season. You have to consider that the side effects of malaria prophylactics could be serious by adverse reactions, especially for a foetus.

Germs
Don't use tab water (nor for cleaning teeth). Nepal has not solved the sewage disposal yet, stool in water cause Hepatitis, Diarrhea and other diseases. Boiling the water or purification with iodine is safe. No ice cubes or ice cream!  If you eat vegetable or fruits: "Peal it, cook it or forget it!"  Drinking the yogurt drink " Lassi " could cause Diarrhea, be careful that meals are not reheated. Be careful, but you have always to calculate with some days of mild sickness of diarrhea, which varies in the intensity. You get loose stool at first and you feel unwell. Untreated nausea normally disappears after some days. Use antibiotics only, if the problems are serious and ask a doctor before.

Be careful and sensitive but there is no reason to be overanxious.

Altitude Sickness   click here

Email
There are plenty of Internet Cafés in Kathmandu and Pokhara. In Kathmandu the price is 30 Rupees per hour, in Pokhara common pricing is 120 Rupees per hour. The speed was low because of the bad telephone connection. There was no Internet on the Jonsom Muktinah Trek or at Sauhara (Chitwan National Park).

Shopping

Thangka click on Photo to enlarge

Copied CDs from international pop stars cost 200 RS (3 Dollar). Test the CD and ask for a trial run. You might get serious problems at the custom of your country. 

There are a lot of second hand bookshops in Thamel and Pokhara, where used books from other travellers are sold. You can also buy Lonely Planet Books, Rough Guides, (new) maps of the treks there.

Jeans were sold for ten dollars each and big bags (Lowe counterfeit -80 liters-) for 25 Dollars. You can buy all your trekking gear in Nepal. The quality is good but not as good as the original products. Importing those counterfeit products to your country might be illegal.

A bargain is buying glasses. The optician measure your eyesight very thoroughly and you pay for glasses 30 to 50 Dollars  with (more expensive as glass) plastic lenses. An optician is at the crossing Kantipath/ Jamal

Famous are the Buddhist paintings "Thangkas", a handicraft center for those is Bhaktapur. Tibetan artists, but also other Nepali workers paint the pictures en detail at canvas. The paintings mostly depict Buddha's life, the "wheel of life" or are "Mandalas" that are mystical diagrams for meditation. The quality differs between "masterpieces" and others. "Masterpieces" are expensive Thangkas, which are made from experienced artists, who also use gold and better colours for painting. Even if the statements of the dealers are exaggerated, it takes a lot of time producing the paintings, therefore Thangkas are not cheap. Expect more than 100 Dollar for a small "Masterpiece"- The problem is that only an expert can distinguish a masterpiece from others. 
Cheap colors usually bleach after some time.

Travel guidebooks
There is no travel guidebook I could really recommend. In Thamel you can buy all kind of new guide books (especially lonely planet Nepal) but also cheaper second hand Lonely Planets or Rough Guides.

Lonely Planet - Nepal :
the most popular, good but not excellent, too expensive for its content.
Rough Guide -  Nepal 
better maps, better presented as the Lonely Planet, cheaper, but poor trekking information
Lonely planet - "Trekking in the Nepal Himalayas" 
bad maps of the trails, only slightly more information as in the Lonely Planet "Nepal", too expensive
 

Links
nepal.com, nepal-dia.de, 
a bit business minded but also many Info about Nepal's sites and history:  nepalvisitors.com, 

Mail me

Questions, corrections, news, critics, links, suggestions and other feedback are welcome !!
mail me:

  kambodschajoe@hotmail.com

Excuse my English, thanks!