click to enlarge
This is the most famous walk in
Iceland. The trek leads though very different landscapes. Mountains in
different colours, mostly black lava mountains covered with green moss,
glaciers, steaming hot springs, rivers, waterfalls and lakes are accompanied
at your walk. But there are no trees, except stunted birches in Þórsmörk.
The trail is really beautiful and it is in my opinion one of the top trails
of the world.
| When to go? | Direction? | Time to go? | Experience? | Equipment? | Dangers | Bus to/from | Maps/Signposts |
| Huts/Camping | Food | Water | Midges |
|
Weather | The Trail | Links |
General Information to the description of the trail :here
When to go?
The trek is casually passable from mid-July to mid September. Before
mid-July there is much snow and in September the fall season begins early
and brings rainy weather. I went there in the first week of September and
it was raining every day. The busses to/from Landmannalaugar or Þórsmörk
were only running from mid July to 15th of September, but from Skógar
every day.
Which direction?
It is better to start in Landmannalaugar, because the first two walking
days are the hardest and it is going slighty downhill. Otherwise crossing
the Fimmvörduhals is more pleasant from South
to North. But you can do the
trail as well from South to North, but you have to decide before, whether
you start in Þórsmörk or
in Skógar. A bath in a natural thermal hot pool in Landmannalaugar
at the end of the trip wasn't recommended some years ago because the pools
were infected by duck germs that could have caused neurodermitis for susceptible
people. Today there is no sign for warning people anymore, as someone mailed
me, therefore I think that the danger is banned, but I am not sure.
Time to go?
The trek to Þórsmörk
is 55 km long. Usually it takes 4 days, but you can make it in three days,
if you do one strenuous long walk or do wild camping (which is not allowed).
The crossing of the Fimmvörduhals to Skógar (23 km) takes 2
days, but if you start early you can also do it on one long day.
Walking Experience?
There are no difficulties, the trek can be done by untrained walkers.
But you should be in the physical condition to climb a hill of some hundred
meters with a backpack and master a 17 km walk
Equipment?
Gloves and cap for cold spells, but also sun protection for sunny days,
tent, warm sleeping bag, knife, scorch, plastic shoes for wading through
the fords, plaster for bleasters, food, poncho and other things against
rain, books. A stove isn't necessary for this trek, because there are kitchen
facilities in the huts, that can also used by campers.
Very expensive camping gear makes the journey more comfortable, but is not really necessary, you could camp more sheltered from wind near the huts or in other wind protected areas. More important is a warm sleeping bag and warm keeping clothes, take gloves, a cap and woolen socks with you, that already helps a lot.
Dangers:
For avoiding hypothermia you must be prepared for sudden drops in temperature
(see above: equipment). Sometimes fog appears so you shouldn't loose your
way. Searching by helicopter could lead to your financial ruin. Don't scald
your fingers by testing the temperatur of steaming fumaroles. There are
no dangers from wild animals or Icelanders, but from elves and trolls (see
chapter there)
Going there/coming back
There is an Asturleid bus from the BSI bus station in Reykjavík
at 8.30 a.m to Landmannalaugar (4800 ISKR -2007!-) or Þorsmörk.
Buses also go to Skógar (3200 ISKR -2007) at 8.30 a.m and 5 .p.m.
The bus from Þórsmörk to
Reykjavík leaves at 3 p.m, from Skógar at 2.30 p.m. The bus
from Landmannalaugar to Reykjavík starts at 2.30 pm. (see also above:
When to go!)
bsi.is (Bus)
Maps/Signposts
The Laugavegurinn is well signposted (posts with yellow tips) You don`t need a special map, the maps that you can buy in Reykjavík (950 ISKR) are lacking in detail ( on a scale of 1:100.000)signposts click on to enlarge
Staying overnight
HutsHrafntninusker Hut Click on to enlarge
Staying overnight is possible in huts of the walking association Fis. The huts have heated shared sleeping bag accommodation, toiletts and kitchen facilities (gas cooker stove and also crockery). Some have showers (300 ISKR), but the water is lukewarm. You have to supply your own sleeping bag. In September was a free place available without problems, but in August it should be mostly overbooked. A confirmed reservation has priority. The price is 1.700 ISKR (discount for members)
utivist.is (huts)Camping
Camping is only allowed at the huts (600 ISKR), the facilities of the hut can be used. On other places it is officially not allowed to camp, but it is possible at suitable places (Don't harm the nature and take your rubbish with you!). But I think, even in August you will find a place for camping at the huts.
Food
There is no possibility to buy anything on the trail, except some sweets
in Landmannalaugar and Pórsmörk. You have to take all food
with you. I needed for 6 days ( 2 breads (each 750gr) , 1 big Salami (800gr)
, 1 piece of cheddar, instant coffee, tea bags, bouillon cubs. Dehydrated
meals for trekker are very good, also noodles (you can prepare them with
salami and cheese). Don't forget some sweets!)
Take a plastic bottle of water with you, some effervescent tablets
for another taste.
Water
Normally you can drink the water from streams and rivers in Iceland
(without liability). But be sure that the water isn't contaminated with
faeces from sheep.
Midges, Mosqitoes
Unlike in Scandinavia or Scotland there were no midgets or mosquitoes
on the trail. There is too much wind and cold for them to survive. There
are only mosquitoes at the "Lake Mývatn" in the North, but
not at the Lauvagevurinn.
Elves and Ghosts
Iceland is teeming with Elves and Ghosts. A guide told me, that he
worked in a certain area only after he had stayed overnight at the grave
of a desceased for showing him respect. Don't take this very lightly and
take respect of nature with all its creatures. Don't disturb Elves and
Ghosts, they don't like it when their environment is polluted with rubbish.
If you fall out of favour with Elves and Ghosts you might stumble in the
fords, miss your plane or be dogged by other misfortune.
Weather
Unfortunately it is raining much in Icecland. And the south-western
territory is Iceland's most rainy corner. But weather changes a lot. After
raining an hour of sunshine is always possible. And the next rain front
is coming soon. Especially at the Fimmvörduhalsyou
can be forced to stay one night on a hut because of fog.
Links
fi.is/English/english_hiking_laugavegur.htm
description of the trail
utivist.is (Hütten)
isafold.de (Wandern auf
Island)
bsi.is (Bus)
| The Laugavegurinn Trail with
Crossing the Fimmvörðuháls |
|
1. Day Landmannalaugar - Hrafntninusker (12 km) 470 m elevation increase Landmannalaugar GPS: 63'59.600 -19'03660
The Bus from Reykjavík arrived at 1 pm in Landmannalaugar. There are toilets and washing facilities and a small shop for buying some sweets.Landmannalaugar (click on picture to enlarge)
Staying overnight for exploring this area is possible in a hut or a camping enarby (800 ISK). Who thinks of doing two stages the next day should consider, that these are the two shortest, but also the most strenuous stages to Þórsmörk.
Bathing in the thermal hot pools wasn't recomended in 2003, because
the pools were contaminated by duck parasites. Normally these parasites
don't harm humans, but they drill into the human skin and could cause Neurodermitis
to sensible people. In 2007 there was no sign anymore -as someone mailed
me- and the hot pools were lively used.
click on picture to enlarge
At first the route is climbing up along some multi-coloured rhyolite
mountains through large black lava fields among steaming fumaroles. After
reaching a plateau with a great view back you have to walk some time till
you reach a green spot with a hot spring at a brook. Then it is going up
and down, after crossing some snowfields (fog is possible) you reach the
pass and after a while you arrive at the hut Hrafntinnusker. 1,5 km from
the hut are some ice caves. The first day was the most strenuous on the
way to Pórsmörk.
Hrafntninusker GPS: 63'55.840
- 19'09.700
2. Day Hrafntninusker - Álftavatn (12 km) one ford 490 m elevation decrease Hrafntninusker GPS: 63'55.840 - 19'09.700
At the beginning of the second day you cross a flat plateau in breathtaking landscape for six kilometers. Then it is going up and down just to some more steaming sulphur hot springs from where you climb to the left upon another plateau. From there you cansee already the lake Álftavan, where is the next hut. At the end of the plateau there is another breathtaking view down to the lake that reminds me at the imagined landscape of "Lord of the rings". The path descends steeply.
Just half an hour before the hut you have to wade through the first ford. Take off your shoes, socks and roll up your trousers (better take them off) and wade through icily cold water.
Wading through a ford
ford
Then the trail leads across marshy grass to the hut at the lake.
A second hut is in Hvanngil some 1 to 2 hours walk more. From
there it is a strenuous forced march to Þórsmörk,
but doing it in two days is more comfortable.
Álftavatn GPS:
63'51.470 - 19'13.640
3. Day Álftavatn - Emstrur (Botnar) (15 km) three fords, 40 m elevation decrease Álftavatn GPS: 63'51.470 - 19'13.640
At the third day there are no ascent, the trail takes us through the lava desert "Emstrur". After the hut Álftavatn two very close ford has to be waded, you can keep on your sandals in principle. After the second ford the signposts are misleading, the trail goes up the hill, and the way in the cañon ends after the waterfall, but you can follow the trek into the canon and go back cross-country to the trail.Álftavatn click on to enlarge
After a while walking through lush green scenery you arrive at hut Hvangill. Take the path behind the hut ( not the jeep track). Some signs show to left and the right but you must go further until you reach a track crossing. To the left and right is the gravel road F 210, our trail goes along the jeep track straight on to "Emstrur". Some more meters and we have to wade across a minimum knee-deep ford, where you better take off your trousers. You must be careful not to trip in the strong current, but it is not very difficult to master this ford. The jeep track is going some kilometer further until you have to turn left onto a small path to "Emstrur" and you will cross another river, but there is a footbridge. From there the small path leads farther and father until you see the hut Emstrur.click on to enlarge
Botnar GPS: 63'45.980 - 19'22.480
4. day Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk (15 km) one ford 300m elevation decrease Botnar GPS: 63'45.980 - 19'22.480
the fourth day is again relaxing and flat. The trail is going at first on a large bend to the river in a landscape of black lava hills covered with green moss. You cross a gorge and reach the end of a plateau. Now the view falls directly to the glacier Myrdalsjökull parallel to the river cañon. At a brook is a small foot bridge and the first crippled birches appear. Some time later the river Prönga is to be forded. At the opposite river bank is already the oasis of Pórsmörk. After a short walk through crippled birch forest you reach the end of the Laugavegurinn with corresponding sign. To the left the trail leads to the hut Langidalur. This hut I would recommend for who want to continue to Skógar the next day. The hut is in more spectacular landscape than the other hut Húsadalur, where the bus starts to Reykjavík at 3 pm. But the hut Húsaldur has a crummy little shop, really hot showers (250 ISKR) with Sauna (350 ISKR incl. shower !!! ) and very nice double cabins for staying overnight (1.700 ISKR pe person). It is half an hour walk to the hut Langidalur GPS: 63'40.960 - 19'30.890click on to enlarge
Emstrur
Crossing the Fimmvörðuháls
5/6 day Þórsmörk-
Skógar
(23 km) Langidalur GPS:
63'40.960 - 19'30.890
Coming from the hut Húsadalur you go the track back, but stay on the track and don't turn left. After half an hour walk you reach the hut Langidalur. You have to cross the river Krossá along a plank way until the bridge appears. The direct crossing of the river should be too dangerous. You still have to cross a knee-deep tributary after the bridge, the last wading through icy water on your trip. Then you went for one hour back along the other side of the river, past the hut Básar and have to turn right up the hill after a small bridge. There is a small sign showing the path to Fimmvörðuháls.Ridge at Goðaland
click on to enlarge
The trail snakes it way up through the "Goðaland", the land of gods with bizarre formed mountain rocks. In the distance you can see the saddle which you have to ascend. In the meantime you have to walk on a ridge that is dangerous when it is stormy.
After you have reached the grey stoned plateau, you see glaciers to the left and the right. Then another steep slope is to be climbed and some beautiful white waterfalls behind black rocks are on the left. The view was getting worse, low clouds were appearing. On a plain of black lava sand I couldn't hardly see from one marking pole to another and it was becoming colder and colder. The fog disappeared for some minutes and a large glacier lake was suddenly perceptible. Now a snowfield had to be crossed, some more were following. Then the crossing to the huts of Fimmvörðuháls was reached. In the direction of Skógar there was another big snowfield (or glacier) , which had to be crossed. At the end of the Fimmvörðuháls was the red shabby hut of Baldvinsskáli, but it was closed.
Now it is going downwards in boring scenery. You can follow the jeep track, the marking poles are showing only some short but uncomfortable abbreviations. After 2 hours of walk the blue pedestrian sign (see below) points to the nearby bridge. Behind the bridge you can follow the marking poles along the track to Skógar, what is comfortable but also boring. ( I went back after a while) .
More attractive is the walk along the river Skógar following its bank on an unmarked path. On the way many the Skógar rush down in many nice cascades and waterfalls midst of green lush surroundings, finally it tumbles sixty meters down as the biggest waterfall the Skógafoss.pedestrian sign
bridge (follow the direction of the blue arrow !)
Skóga
Skógafoss
| There is a legend that the first settler and sorcerer hid a chest of gold in a cave behind the fall, which is protected by mighty spells. Many have tried to recover the chest, but only three people managed to tear out the handle of the chest with a cable. The handle was the knob of the church in Skógar for many years, but it is now displayed in the museum there. |
Skógar has a small camping place and there should be a "sleeping bag accommodation" in the "Hotel Edda" . A bus is leaving only daily at 2.30 pm to Reykjavík. Hitching from the ring road is also a thinkable option, I was waiting one hour in the evening, then I got (after 11 cars passing) a ride to Selfoss. The driver was very helpful. Thank you!
Links:
nat.is/travelguideeng/hiking_laugavegur.htm
with bus times, huts etc
fi.is/English/english_hiking_laugavegur.htm,
utivist.is (Huts)
bsi.is (Bus)
Feedback, criticism, news, your links, your
experiences are welcome!
mail me!!
Excuse my English, that is not my native language,
thanks!
It would be kind to mail me one to three mistakes in
language, you find, thanks!