Coast to Coast Walk in Northern England
St. Bees - Robin Hood Bay - 190 miles (304 km) -
 
 other countries/home
trails of the world

Information
 
General
Season
Direction West -East,
Charakter of the Trails
When to go
Getting there and back
Accomodation
Signs/maps
Food
Shopping,
Internet
other UK-trails
Links
Questions? Hints!?

The Coast to Coast Walk is the most varied and popular hiking trail in England. It pass three National Parks:
Lake District, Yorkshire Dales, North York Moors.


 
German 

The route

St Bees  – Ennerdale Bridge,
Ennerdale Br – Rosthwaite,
Rosthwaite – Grasmere,
 Grasmere – Patterdale,
Patterdale – Shap,
Shap – Kirkby Stephen,
Kirkby Stephen – Keld,
Keld – Reeth,
Reeth – Richmond- Brompton,
 Brompton on Swale - Osmotherley,
Osmotherley – Blakely Ridge
Blakely Ridge  – Grosmont,
 Grosmont – Robin Hood’s Bay,

 

General
The Coast to Coast Walk has been created by the famous Lake District travelbook writer Alfred Wainwright (1907-1991). It was published by him in his book "Coast to Coast Walk" in 1973. His son Martin is responsible for new editions of the book. Although I think it is the most popular trail in England, it is no National Trail. The reason of it's popularity is, that Wainwright was choosing  the most beautiful and varied stretches for the walk.

 

When to go:
the Coast to Coast Trail (abb.: C2C) could be done from spring to late autumn,  in winter it might be difficult but not impossible to walk in the Lake District. Some upland moor are not passable on wet conditions, but there are alternative paths. It was very beautiful at late May.
You have to expect rain at every time of the year, it is England, not Spain!

to top

 

West-East or East-West direction?
most people go from West to East, because Wainwright has done it so and because of the wind, which should blow mostly from the Irish Sea. But I comparably  had headwind and wind from the back. If you like to meet people, do as most people do. The strongst argument for the West-East Direction is that the maps and signs (if they are some) show in this direction. The advantage of the East- West direction is that the most hard and interesting parts of the Lake District are at the end of the trail.

 

Difficulties
the hike is not very hard, and even less trained hiker can do that. But it is also no easy walking, there are some long ascents and you have to climb several times over fences. You need hiking boots, otherwise you feel every stone on the rocky soil in the Lake District and sneakes or trainers will be have holes after three days.
Sometimes it is difficult to find a room for the night, it is easier with a tent. But with a handy and the Stedman you should find some bed and breakfast.
Difficult is to find the path as it is hardly signposted, sometimes tricky or the signs even show the wrong direction. In the Lake District are no signs at all.
You might find with sore feet and bleesters.

 

How long to go:
don't be too optimistic. The 12 days, which are recommended by Wainwright, could be only mastered by very trained hikers. There is a lot up and down, rocky paths and climbing walls and fences and time for orientation. A day of rest might be sensible. A good idea is doing it in parts, for example one week hiking through the lake District and going by bus from Shap to Kendal. I would recommend to walk both alternates from Keld to Reeth, so it is one day more.

to top

 

Getting there and back:
St. Bees
cheap flights from abroad are to Manchester or Liverpool. From Manchester is a train to Carlisle and from there a train to St.Bees, buying the ticket on Internet saves a lot of money, so buy a ticket at nationalexpress.com  from Manchester Picadilly to Carlisle  (no discount from Airport) (from 10 Pounds). The discount tickets are available from three month before the scheduled day. For the next Carlisle - St.Bees ( 9,60 Pounds, leaving at 1.20 p.m are no discounts available, so buy it from the conductor or at the station. Foreigners must choose the fast ticket and credit card option. You get a eamil with a code. At the UK station you put your creditcard (you payed the ticket with) in one of the fast ticket machines, give in the sent code (you dont need you pin of your creditcard) and the ticket is printed. The trail starts from the public beach in St. Bees.

Richmond/Darlington
there is a bus to Darlington and from there trains to Manchester. Buy the ticket at  nationalexpress.com. There is a "fast ticket" machine at the station. The airport Durham Tees Valley in the outskirts from Darlington, reachable by bus.

Robin Hood's Bay
There is a bus from London Victoria Station ( 26 Pfund ) to Whitby at 1.00 p.m  (look: nationalexpress.com.) From Whity  bus No. 93 is going nearly each hour to Scarborough and it stops at Robin Hood's Bay  northyorkstravel.info, northyorkstravel.info/pdf/YNAO093.pdf,. If it is more convenient you can go to Scarborough and from there to Robin Hood Bay. You can also fly to Manchester, Leeds or Darlington and take the  yorkshirecoastliner.co.uk  from Leeds to Witby or Scarborough.

to top


 

Accommodation ( look also at the decribed parts of the trail )

Hotels or B&B
it isn't often easy to find B&B, which charge something between  30-40 Pounds. At bank holidays or in summer the B&B are often booked out, but normally you will find something. In the travel guide "Stedman" look here  hotels and B&B are listed with email and phone No., but the prices are not up to date, even for the 3rd edition of 2008.

Youth Hostels yha.org.uk,

sign YHA YHA Grasmere
charge about 20 pounds (2009). The breakfast is mostly a buffet - good ! - and is worth the extra 4,50 Pounds. Youth Hostels are often booked out by school groups, so don't count on it for sure. Without an International Youth Hostel membership card you pay a fee of 3 Pounds extra. But international cards are accepted too,  so it doesn't matter from which country is your YHA-card. Usually there are self serving kitchens with a hot water boiler, a TV- room and a lounge. But I missed the Internet for customers, sometimes you got it for the extorting rate of 4 pounds/hour. In some areas there are camping barns (=matrass camps) for around 7-9 pounds, which are also often booked out by groups. Unfortunately the YHA organisation has sold many Youth Hostels and so destroyed the network for hikers and bikers and specialise only in some distinct pleasure areas like the Lake District. Youth hostels or dorms are in  Ennerdale, Grasmere, Patterdale, Shap - private dorm- ,  Kirky Stephan - private- ,  Grinton (at  Reeth),  Osmotherley and in Whitby.

Camping
is popular in the U.K. Without car it costs app.  4-8 pounds, but for that you get quite different services, from primitive toilets to large shower rooms, self serving kitchen and lounge.

Wild Camping
is a possible option. I quote the British "Trail" magazine 4/08 (not literally) "The laws regarding wild camping are a little complicated, but in the Lake District the activity has a tradition of tolerance of that means people can often camping high on the mountains al long as they arrive late, depart early and leave no trace."
Due to English law the owner of the land must give his consent previously. He must give his consent, if this is the result of a fair balance between his interests and the right of public way. This consideration might be complicated, unless you dont want to camp in his front garden. "But the worst that is likely to happen, that you are asked to move" (another hiking magazine). You can easily pitch your tent late in remote areas, without getting disturbed and in trouble until the next morning. Even the authorities tolerate that, if you dont make fire, rubbish and waste water with soap and detergents.

to top


 

Signs and maps

  a rather unusual signpost
the Coast to Coast path is the worst signposted trail I know (know some world wide). There are no signs in the Lake District for keeping the scenery for itself.  The reason is, that the C2C Trail  is not a National Trail, despite its popularity. Wainwright belonged obviously to the wrong club.
The finding of the way is sometimes so sophisticated that you must have both guides, the trail guide from Stedman and the guide from Wainwright with the Ordnance Survey maps.  A compass would be fine, too. Sometimes the signs even show the wrong direction (so after Dent Hill)

Coast to Coast Path, Henry Stedman from the Trailblazer Serie ( 3rd ed. 08,  10 pounds) ISBN 978-1-905864-09-6,
Coast to Coat Walk, Martin Wainwright  (1st. ed. 2007 13 pounds)  Aurum Press  ISBN 13-978- 1845132224  ISBN 10-1 -84513-222X

 

Food ( look also at the decribed parts of the trail )
No or only some very small shops in the Lake District. The situation is getting better from Shap. You can't use the water from brooks, where are feces from sheeps or houses. Some pubs offer pub meals.

 

Shopping
in the Lake District there are mostly very small local shops for food. In Grasmere and Shap is the discounter "Coop". Other shops are quite rare, some shops are in Grasmere, Kirkby Stephen, Reeth, Richmond, Othmotherley and Gormont.  There is a cheap bus from Shap to Kendal or Penrith, these are big cities with shopping malls.
Richmond is the only bigger city on the C2C trail.

 

Internet ( look also at the decribed parts of the trail )
very rare. In the Youth hostel Grasmere, but they charge 2 Pounds/30 min. Internet is also in the  Richmond library (1,25 pounds 27 min).

to top


Stages (which are usually taken)
 

Stage 1
St. Bees  -  Ennerdale Bridge 23 km / 14 miles YHA only 6 miles after Ennerdale, small shop in Cleator

Fleswick Bay  Portal St.Bees Church   click on picture to enlarge
Don't underestimate the first stage. The hike along the cliffs and the ascent up to Dent hill is quite strenuous. The Youth Hostel Ennerdale is 6 miles far from Ennerdale and the walk along the lake is rocky. You normally won't make it to the YHA by leaving the train, which arrives in St. Bees at 2. p.m.
 
 
St. Bega
due to an old tale St. Bega was an Irish princess, who fled from Ireland to avoid an arranged marriage with a Norwegian prince. Living as an hermit, she got famous by doing charities to the poor in her neighborhood. Lord Egremont was asked to donate her some land and he promised her all the land covered under snow the next day. Though it was summer snow fell around St. Bees and she could built her convent. The town was named after her, as St. Bees is a corruption of her name.

In detail
In St. Bees is an old church (13th century) with a wonderful portal. St. Bees is a tranquil small village with a beach, but nothing depicts the beginning of the Coast to Coast Walk. Take the path to the public beach, from there you see the way along the cliffs. It is going up and down. After 50 minutes you reach Fleswick Bay a wonderful beach with pebbles, put the toe in the Irish Sea as Wainwright has proposed. Later you pass a lookout for watching the sea birds sitting in the cliffs. The lighthouse is not very photgenic, so go straight on. After two hours you reach two white houses, where you have to say good by to the coast. A narrow paved road  leads to Sandwith and after some walking you reach a farm house. Behind the farm house you might get lost, look for the tunnel under the railways. The Kissing gates in this area are ennoying much too small for hikers with a backpack. At Moor Row you can take an alternative route along a disused railway. Before Cleator is a cricket field, if the club pub is open, they have good beer!  In Cleator is a small shop and the first pub along the c2c. After cleator it is a long hauling way up to Dent Hill. At the top you have georgious views to the sea and the foothills of the Lake District. A nice place to pick up your tent. You descend to the Nannycatch Beck, but at the foot of Dent hill the sign c2c shows the wrong direction !! The valley of Nanny Catch beautiful, it ends in a paved road, you have to go some steps to the right and then to the left otherwise you will end in a farm. You follow the road to Ennerdale. The shop in Ennerdale is closed. There is a hotel, but not much other accommodation.

to top




 

Stage 2
Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite /Borrowdale  25 km / 15 miles YHA Ennderdale, Black Sail, Honister House and Rostwaite, small shop in Rosthwaite

Ennerdale Water  View to  Buttermere Lakes  YHA Blacksail    click on picture to enlarge
a middle hard stage, where you have to decide to take the alternative Route along the Hay Stacks.

in detail
the C2C leads to the lake Ennerdale Water and then along its shore, where it is a bit rocky. At the end of the lake you can follow the route, which goes along the west or east side of the lake. At the left side you pass Ennderdale JYA. After the YHA you can take the alternative route along the Haystacks, then you have to make a tough ascent up to Red Pike. From top you have nice views down to Buttermere lakes and the mountains around. Wainwright liked this area so much, that he ordered to scatter his ashes there; his wish was fullfilled after his death. I was too tired for the Hay Stacks. Following the main route you come to the Black Sail YHA, which is beautiful situated at the end of the valley surrounded by three mountains. After Blacksail you have to ascend along the brook Loft Beck. From the top you have wonderful views down to the Buttermere lakes. There you meet again with the alternative route. Know it is a slow descent along Honister Slate quarries. Just behind the Honister buildings is a YHA (15 Pound. A paved road leads down to Rostwhaite, where is another  YHA and pass the nice village  Seatoller before.

to top




 

Stage 3
Rosthwaite – Grasmere 15 km / 9,5 miles  two YHA in Grasmere, some pubs, shops, one coop

up to Greenup Edge  Helms crack   Grasmer click to enlarge
In Wainwrights book it is one day to Patterdale. But usually hikers take two days and do the alternative route over the Helm Crack the first day and the exciting walk over Striding Edge the second day. I very recommend it , too.

in detail
you can do a shortcut at Longthwaite to Stonewaite nehmen. Stonewaite is a small pittoresque village. Ther you cross the bridge a walk along the Langstrath Beck until it meets the Greenup Gill, which you follow to the top. After the first summit there is another short but steep ascent. At the top you reach a vaste upland moor plateau. The path is not defined, os you can get lost, as I did. Later it is better defined and if you follow this path it leads you automatically over the Helm Crack alternative. It is a very nice walk with superb views, some up and downs but it is not a difficult walk. After Helms Crack the path is desending in spirals down to Grasmere.
Grasmer is a nice, but also a very touristic village.

to top



 

Stage 4
Grasmere -Patterdale 16 km / 10 miles  YHA in Patterdale,

Striding Edge from Helvellyl  Path along Tongue Gill (right side) click to enlarge
This will be an exciting day, if you walk up to Hevellyl and from there along the striding Edge. That means some climbing, but you can cope with that, while you have tunning views. Be careful especially if it is wet and slippery. A highlight of the C2C-walk.

in detail
you leave Grasmer by passing the YHA Thorny How on a small paved road until you cross the A 591 and walk about an mile on a field path which divide at a brodge. You can walk at the right or left side of "Little Tongue Gill". You have nicer views back to Grasmere, at the left side, which means a harder ascent as the path descend at the end, before it reunites with the right side path at a small waterfall. Some hundred yards and you reach a wall, from where you have a nice view at the lake "Grisedal Tarn" and at the path ascending up to up to "Hollywaggon Pike". It is steep, but not as hard as it looks, nowadays there are steps up the mountain.  I would recommend to take the alternative route along the striding edge. The other route along St. Sunday Crag offers nice views, but isn't as adventurous as "Striding Edge". After reaching the top of Hollywaggon pike the route is flat and pleasant along the ridge up to "Helvellyl Summit". From there you have the superb views to Striding Edge. Now it is a nasty clambering down to the ridge. Normally no problem, but be careful, especially, when it is wet. You can walk atop of the ridge or more comfortable at the path underneath the ridge. After Striding Edge the path branches off down to Patterdale.

to top



 

Stage 5
Patterdale – Shap 26 km / 16 miles  Dormroom in the New Ing Farm , COOP-Shop, Bus to Kendal and Penreeth

Angel Tarn  Haywater Reserve  Shap Abbey   click to large
A long, but nice day, at which you leave the Lake District and zig zag through nice forest, parks and fields. Again enough possiblities to go lost. At the end you have the icing of the "Shap Abbey" ruins.

in detail
after Patterdale there is a long ascent, at the top you have to follow the path up to the left until you reach the lake Angel Tarn (popular to wild camping). At the lake "Hayeswater" don't miss the branch off to "Kidsty Pike". The wrong way straight on is the "High Straight", an old Roman military route. The ledge "Kidsty Pike" looks more dramatic from the distance at it is. After Kidsty Pike you descent to "Haywater Reserve", a big water reservoir.  It is a bit rocky when walking along the artifical lake.  Behind the dam you pass a forest with old trees and reach a bridge. After the bridge the C2C is going through a very nice park, then along a meadow until you reach a field of brooms. You have to cross the wet broom field for going to "Rosgill Bridge", there is no path. After Rosgill Bridge you walk along whitestone walls to another smaller bridge. Behind this bridge you have to cross the meadow for going to a deserted ruined Farm. Some yards along a paved road, the oublic path across other  meadows and then you reach the ruins of "Shap Abbay" (entrance free). One more mile country road and you enter Shap.
 

 
Shap Abbey
was built about 1201 A.D. by the French orden of the Premonstraets. It was dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540 A.D., after he separted the English Church from the pope because of his divorces  (look here here ) . Shap Abbey was handed to the duke of Carlisle and the leaders of the monks got a pension. 

Shap
when entering town some meters to the left there is the New Ing Farm. They have  B&B and two dorm rooms (bed 12 pounds) with showers and self serving kitchen on the floor. The Coop shop is some yards away. A bus is going to Kendal ( only 2,85 pounds roundtrip (45 min),  a town with shopping mall and interesting museums, a good idea for a day rest, especially when it is raining.



 


 

Etappe 6
Shap  – Kirkby Stephen  33 km / 21 miles  YHA (now private), Bus and rail connection, shops

stone circle  upland moor  Smardale bridge   click to enlarge

Hostel - 
-click to enlarge- 
in detail
after crossing the motorway and passing a quarry you pass Oddendale without visiting it. Behind Oddendale at the pen you have to cross the field for around 300 yards (no path) to find the prehistorical stone circle. You return to the path and walk for a long time through upland moors, breaked up from fields and meadows and two more stone circles. Wainrwight favoured another route than Stedman. At "Smardale Bridge" is a  closed down railway in the distant is an old viaduct.  A long ascent and descent to Kirkby Stephen at the end. 

Kirkby Stephen is a small pretty town, even with a Fish and Chips shop. The Youth Hostel, which is an old church,  was recently sold to a young woman, who tries to have a living from. The hostel charge 17 pounds, has showers, a self serving kitchen, Internet if you ask. The owners lives around the corner, coming very late, a guest showed me a bed and I paid next day. All is a bit relaxed for the moment. 

to top




 

Stage 7
Kirkyby Stephen - Keld 21 km / 13 miles only some B & B,  Bus 14.55 to  Reeth, Grinton (YHA), Richmond

Nine Standards  Yorkshire Dale Moor
Today the C2C enters the Yorkshire Dales NP, up to the water shed to the  "Nine Standards" and through upland moor (at dry weather)

In Detail
a long ascent up to the water shed of Britain, where are standing the ""Nine Standards", which are full of myths. Expect a very heavy wind there. After thtat he path leads through moor, you will sink in the marshland at wet conditions. Therefore there is an alternate bad weather route, which has the disadvantage not to pass the Nine standards. You might go back from the "Nine Standards" to the alternate pass, when it is wet. After the moor you walk along the Swale Dale Valley to Keld.
 

 
The "Nine Standards" 
the 6 meter high, colossal stone heaps are standing there for centuries and noone knows who had built them for what purpose. One theory is that aggressors from the west should be deterred by prentending a big army, but who will get feigned by that? Therefore the theory of the function as boundary posts is more plausible. 

Keld
has only some houses. The YHA was sold and changed into Keld Lodge, a hotel with restaurant and bar. B&B is 45 Pound/person en suite and 35 pounds for a quite simple room without shower. No hot water for tea and coffee for the rooms, as usual in other B&B's, you have to order and sit in the restaurant.
Better conditions offer the Swale Farm in the neighboured Muker (25 Pounds B&B, dalesandvaleswalks.co.uk/swalefarm.html). If you are early in Keld you might consider of taking the bus to Grinton at 2.55 p.m (Mo-Sa) fors taying in the YHA and coming back without bagage with the morning bus.
Bus (Line 30) to Reeth, Grinton, Richmond: northyorkstravel.info,
 
 


-Pennine Way- 
 
Peninne Way
In Keld the Peninne Way cross the C2C. The Peninne Way was the first National Trail in the UK. It is 400 km/268  miles long and  leads from north, (Kirk Yetholm/Scotisch Border) to South (Derbyshire Edde).
Link: penninewayassociation.co.uk,
 

to top




 

Stage 8
Keld – Reeth 18 km / 11 Miles YHA  (1,5 miles from Reeth in Grinton), Bus No.30 to Richmond, small shops, Internet

Swale Dale Falls  walls   click to enlarge
There are two equal value alternatives hiking this part of the "C2C", which are both quite interesting.The first option is to walk along the beautiful  valley of the Swale Dale. The second one is through the moor along deserted industrie mining buildings.Wainwright choose the historical route.
If you have one day more, I would recommend walk both options!, as you can take the bus back to Reeth in the morning. I was thrilled by both options and won't miss them both.
 
 
Drystone Walls
demarcate the boundaries of the farmer's land. They were mostly built in the 18th and 19th century. No mortar is used. One sqm weights more than one tonne. The profession of a drystone waller is a dying profession, because wire fence ic much cheaper and fulfill its purpose, too. There is one full time drystone waller in Swale Dale, who repairs broken walls. One day courses drystone walling are availble (45 Pounds). 

Swale Dale variante
a tip: take the right side of the river by following the small path at the bridge before the waterfall. At the beginning it is a bit scrambeling until the wonderful double waterfall, but the right side is much prettier as people told me, who walked both sides. And it was very nice (anyway at sunshine). Before Muker you can change the river side. At Gunnerside th guide of Stedman and Wainwright have different directions, I tried the Stedman, but get lost, so I took the Wainwright variante again.

Wainwrite's official Variante
Keld – Reeth 18 km / 11 miles

old engine  abandoned mine
after the waterfall you ascend up to the high moore. Very quickly you reach the first ruins of  the mine buidlings of Crackpot Hall and the Swinner Gill. After Swinner Gill you follow the brook until you reach a wide gravel road. It is not easy to find the path, some strenus climbing. Beining on the gravel raod it is an easy walking. But dont miss the decent to the valley to the Cloister like ruins of Blackethwait mines at the river. Follow the path of the Stedmen to the Gunnerside Gill ruins, you might loose your way using the shortcut of Wainwrite here. Being on the gavel road again, it is a long way to the pcturous Old Old Gang smeling mill.  You later cross a paved country road and some minutes later you must cross a valley, there I lost my way.
 
 
The old leading mines 
Lead has been mined from Roman times at first for plumbing. In mediaval times it was used for building the cathedrals. The invention of the gunpowder caused an increase of leadmining in the 17th. century. Due to the cheaper leading mines in South America the leading mines were given up in the late 19th century and the buildings broke down. 

Reeth
a nice village with small shops, a tourist information and some pubs. The YHA (19 pounds) is situated in Grinton (1 mile from Reeth) and you have to ascend another  0,5 mile. The YHA has showers, TV Room,  a self serving kitchen but no Internet for customers. It is in a castle like building.
Bus: Keld, Reeth, Grinton, Richmond (No.30)

to top



 

Etappe 9
Reeth – Richmond 17 km / 10,5 Meilen  YHA,

Marrick Priory,  to the Applegarth Scar  Richmond castle
a nice day, not very spectacular, but neither ups and downs

in Detail
the C2C pass Marrick Priority, an fomer nun priority. You ascent to Marrick, known at the "nun steps" , that means 375 steps to the abbey. After Marrick you pass field until you reach Marske. There is the old Roman church "St. Edmund the Martyr", you can sign in the visitor book. At the road crossing is the mansion "Marske Hall". You pass on fields to the white cliffs of Applegarth Scar which you follow on its foot. At the end you pass a forest and you will see Richmond Castle in the distance when leaving the forest.
 

 
Richmond Castle
was built in 1071 while the  Norman conquests after a raid of English rebels as an protecting castle. The keep was added 1170 A.D. by Henry II. The castle wasn't raided nor wasn't used and was falling in decay during the centuries. It was used as a military base and in the World War I as a prison also for conscientous objectors.
Entrance fee 4 Pounds

Richmond:
biggest town on the C2C walk. A shopping mall center, a tourist information, who arrange B&B, many restaurants, Fish and Chips. Public Internet in the library
1,25 Pounds/~30 min.  Busses to Darlington, where is a train station.

 

Stage 10
Brompton on Swale - Osmotherley  32km / 20 miles   Barn Stay in Brompton,  YHA in Osmotherley

Catterick Race Course  C2C Walkers
a typical average English scenery through small villages, on small forest or wider gravel paths, along brooks or crossing meadows. It hasn't any highlights but it is not boring either. In Bolton on Swale a memorial stone in the churchyard reminisces to the allegedly 169 year old salmon fisher Henry Jenkings. The only pub on this part at Danby Wiske is closed and to be sold. The guesthouse at Ingleby Cross, which offers B & B, opens late from 6.30 p.m. Nicer to stay is the pretty village Osmotherley, which means one more hour walking.You ascent a small hill through forest and after reaching the top you have to follow the Cleveland Way to the right.
Osmotherley is situated about 1 mile from the C2C. There is a nice Youth hostel. (by reaching the road to the town, turn left  (the way to the village is to the right) and after 500m there is a sign YHA (more 400m).
Accommodation: YHA Osmotherley,



 

Stage 11
Osmotherley  – Blakely Ridge 38 km / 24 miles

Blakely Moor  Wain Stones
Especially on a sunny day a gorgeous secenery. The C2C is follwing the Cleveland Way for a long time. First it leads through forests and then after the viewpoint Round Hill along the ridge of  a high moor plateau. There are fantastic views down to the flat land 300m below. Unfortunately you must descend the Plateau three times, when it is cut by valleys. After the first decend you can have a rest at Café Lord Stones, which is very popular, a nice place with reasonable prices and good food. After the second decent you pass the big rocks of the "Wain Stones". Then there is the last steep decent down to Clay Bank Top. Some 200m far at the country road is a stop for Busses to Stocksley or Helmsley (with YHA), but it is served only in summer. You might wish to stop here, but the next accommodations are in Great Broughton or Urra, which is some miles distant from the C2C.  But comfortably it is only a moderate ascent and then it is an easy flat walking on comfortable gravel roads through vast North York Moor land. After one hour you pass a waymark with a face. If there is no head wind, you make your miles quite quickly. You will see the "Lion's Inn" from the distant.

Accommoadation: B&B, Lions Inn lionblakey.co.uk  from 37 Pounds, if full they try to arrange beds in the neighboured village (40 Pounds). I was brought back from the landlords of the guesthouse to the  C2C in the morning.

to top



 

Stage 12
Blakely Ridge – Grosmont  21,5 km / 13,5 miles

Toll gate house  Grosmont steam train
In the Stedmen guide is is described as one of the nicest stage of the C2C especially between Glaisdale und Grosmont. Even the weather was fine I judge it as boring and was a little bit dissappointed.

More interesting was the lok shed after a long old tunnel, which is said to be the first at all. You can't enter it, but  have a look in it (free). Don't miss to see at least one of the several departs of  a steam train in the station, which depart for Pickering or Whitby. The station scene of the first Harry Potter movie was filmed here.
There is a bus  (1,20 Pound) , historical steam trains  ( 8 Pounds) and ordinary trains  (3-4 Pounds) to Whitby. The trip takes about 20 minutes. So it is an idea to stay in Whitby, a quite intersting town. The YHA is next to Whity Abbey (close at  6.30 p.m.), which is situated spectacular above the town, but the YHA is often booked out by groups. The tourist info with the room agency  close at 5 p.m. So try to catch the train at 3.15 p.m in Grosmont, which is good manageable.

to top




 

Stage 13
Grosmont - Robin Hood's Bay 25 km / 15,5 miles YHA in Robin Hood's Bay.

Robin Hoods Bay  Waterfall  Ermitage
The last stage is long but also varied. First it goes through high moor lands, but mainly along main roads. Then it decends down to the hamlet of Littlebeck from where a long path follows through the protected Little Beck Forest. There you get to a big rock with a chisseled hole and the engraved date "1790", named the "Ermitage". Take the left path and there is a sign of the C2C again and it is not far to the Midge Hall, where you can sit and have some tea with scones.  After that you follow the brook through forests with old trees before you reach the parking place. A small country road and then through high moor area again. Sometimes it is boogey and there is no path, so don't loose the way. Later you can see the North Sea and Whitby Abbey in the distance. You pass Hawsker, and will arrive at the Sea after the second caravan park. Then along the cliffs again, the same procedure as at the start from St. Bees. After one hour you reach Robin Hood's Bay. The name of the town has no connection to  Robin Hood of the Sherwood Forest. The last pub in the town in Wainwrights Bar, it is a tradition to sign your "having done it" in the C2C walkers book.

There are some  B& B (from 35 Pounds).The Youth hostel is more expensive as usual (25 Pounds) but worse (even telephone doesn't work). It is just a 20 min. walk from  Robin Hood's just follw the Ceveland Way.

to top



 

other Trails in the UK  look there: Trails/UK,




 

Links:
Coast to Coast Walk: coast2coast.co.uk, http://einklich.net/coast-to-coast, coast-to-coast.ch,
Trails in UK: nationaltrail.co.uk, walkingenglishman.com  (List of trails with links), ramblers.org.uk, john butler (end to end walk across/quer durch Britain)




 

Feedback, questions, critics, news, links, experiences are welcome!

mail me: kambodschajoe@hotmail.com

Excuse my English, that is not my native language, thanks!

It would be kind to mail me 1-3 mistakes you found, if you think this side is helpful for your trip. Thanks!


to top