Information
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Lake District, Yorkshire Dales, North York Moors.
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The route
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General
The Coast to Coast Walk has been created by the for the
Lake district famous travelbook writer Alfred Wainwright
(1907-1991)
and was published by him in his book Coast to Coast Walk in 1973. His son
Martin is responsible for new editions of the book. Although I think the
most popular Trail in England, it is no National Trail. it is so popular
because Wainwright was searching for the most beautiful and varied stretches
for the walk.
When to go:
the Coast to Coast Trail (abb.: C2C) could be done from
spring to late autumn, in winter it might be difficult but not impossible
to walk in the Lake District. Some upland moor are not passable on wet
conditions, but there are alternative paths. It was very beautiful at late
May.
You have to expect rain at every time of the year, it
is England, not Spain!
West - East or East-West direction?
most people go from West to East, because Wainwright
has done it so and because of the wind, which should blow mostly from the
Irish Sea. But I had often headwind. If you like to meet people, do as
most people do. The advantage of the East- West direction is that the most
hard and interesting parts of the Lake District are at the end of the trail.
Difficulties
the hike is not very hard, and even less trained hiker
can do that. But it is also no easy walking, there are some long ascents
and you have to climb several times over fences. You need hiking boots,
otherwise you feel every stone on the rocky soil in the Lake District and
sneakes or trainers will be have holes after three days.
Sometimes it is difficult to find a room for the night,
it is easier with a tent. But with a handy and the Stedman you should find
some bed and breakfast.
Difficult is to find the path as it is hardly signposted,
sometimes tricky or the signs even show the wrong direction. In the Lake
District are no signs at all.
You might find with sore feet and bleesters.
How long to go:
don't be too optimistic. The 12 days, which are from
Wainwright recommended, could be only mastered by very trained hikers.
There is a lot up and down, rocky paths and climbing walls and fences and
time for orientation. A day of rest might be sensible. You can do it also
in parts, so one way hiking through the lake District and going by bus
from Shap to Kendal.
Getting there and back:
St. Bees
cheap flights from abroad are to Manchester or Liverpool.
From Manchester is a train to Carlisle and from there a train to St.Bees,
buying the ticket on internet saves a lot of money, so buy a ticket at
thetrainline.com,
from Manchester Picadilly to Carlisle (no discount from Airport)
(from 10 Pounds). For the next Carlisle - St.Bees ( 9,60 Pounds, leaving
at 1.20 p.m are no discounts available, so buy it from the conductor or
at the station. Foreignours must choose the fast ticket and credit card
option. You must give a British adress, but you might use any. You get
a eamil with a code. At the UK station you put your creditcard (you payed
the ticket with) in one of the fast ticket machines, give in the sent code
(you dont need you pin of your creditcard) and the ticket is printed. The
trail starts from the public beach in St.Bees.
Richmond/Darlington
there is a bus to Darlington and from there trains to
Manchester. Buy the ticket at trainline on Internet. There is a "fast ticket"
machine at the station. There is an airport Durham Tees Valley in the outskirts
from Darlington.
Robin Hood Bay
There is a bus from London Victoria Station ( 26 Pfund
) ot Whitby at 1. p.m look: nationalexpress.com.
From Whity are busses to Scarborough, which stop at Robin hood Bay. If
it is more convenient you can go to Scarborough and from there to Robin
Hood Bay traveline.org.uk.
Accommodation ( look also at the decribed parts of the trail )
Hotels or B&B
is often not easy to find. B&B is charged with 30-40
Pounds, only sometimes for the in North England usual 25 Pounds. At bank
holidays or in summer the B&B are often booked, but normally you will
find something. In the travl huide Stedman look here
are hotels and B&B with email and phone No. listed, but the prices
are not up to date, even for the 3rd edition of 2008.
Youth Hostels yha.org.uk,
charge about 17 pounds, breakfast mostly buffet - is good -costs 4,50 Pounds. Youth Hostels are often booked out by school groups, so dont count on it for sure.sign YHA
YHA Grasmere
An International Youth Hostel membership card was asked, but it doesn't matter from which country. In the Youth hostels are self serving kitchens with hot water boiler, a TV- room and a lounge. I liked the British Youth hostels. But it is lacking the Internet for customers, sometimes you got it for the extorting rate of 4 pounds/hour. There are sometimes camping barns (=matrass camps) for around 7-9 pounds, which are also often booked out by groups. Unfortunately the YHA organisation has sold many Youth Hostels and so destroyed the network for hikers and bikers and specialise only in some distinct pleasure areas as the Lake District. Youth hostels or dorms are in Ennerdale, Grasmere, Patterdale, Shap - private dorm- , Kirky Stephan - private- , Grinton (at Reeth), Osmotherley and in Whitby.
Camping
is very popular in the U.K. For hikers without car is
cost around 4-8 pounds, but for that you get raal different services,
from primitive toilets to large shower rooms, self serving kitchen and
lounge.
Wild Camping
is good possible. "The laws regarding wild camping are
a little complicated, but in the Lake District the activity has a tradition
of tolerance of that means people can often camping high on the mountains
al long as they arrive late, depart early and leave no trace"( from "Trail"
magazine 4/08). Due to English law the owner of the land must give his
consent previously. This might be mostly complicated, unless you dont want
to camp in his front garden. "But the worst that is likely to happen,
that you are asked to move" (another hiking magazine). If you dont make
fire, rubbish and waste water with soap and detergents, you can easily
pitch your tent late in remote areas, without getting disturbed until the
next morning.
Signs and maps
the Coast to Coast path is the worst signposted trail I know (know some world wide). there are no signs in the lake District. One reason is, that it is not a National Trail, despite its popularity, Wainwright belonged obviously to the wrong club. The finding of the way is sometimes so sophisticated that you must have both guides, the trail guide from Stedman and the guide from Wainwright with the Ordnance Survey maps. A compass would be fine, too. Sometimes the signs even show the wrong direction (so after Dent Hill)a rather unusual signpost
Coast to Coast Path, Henry Stedman
from the Trailblazer Serie ( 3rd ed. 08, 10 pounds) ISBN 978-1-905864-09-6,
Coast to Coat Walk, Martin
Wainwright (1st. ed. 2007 13 pounds) Aurum Press
ISBN 13-978- 1845132224 ISBN 10-1 -84513-222X
Food (
look also at the decribed parts of the trail )
No or only some very small shops
in the Lake District. The situation is getting better from Shap. Finding
water is also not so easy as you cant use the water from brooks, where
are feces from sheeps or houses. Some pubs offer pub meals erhältlich.
Shopping
in the Lake District there are mostly very small local
shops for food. In Grasmere and Shap is the discounter Coop. Other shops
are quite rare, some shops are in Grasmere, Kirkby Stephen, Reeth and Richmond.
There is a cheaper bus from Shap to Kendal or Penrith, these are bigger
cities with shopping malls.
Internet (
look also at the decribed parts of the trail )
very rare. In the Youth hostel
Grasmere, but they charge 2 Pounds/30 min. Also Internet in Reeth 1,50
pounds/30 min and in Richmond library (1,15 pounds 27 min).
Stages (which
are usually taken)
Stage 1
St. Bees - Ennerdale Bridge 23
km / 14 miles YHA
only 6 miles after Ennerdale, small shop in Cleator
Don't underestimate the first stage. The hike along the cliffs and the ascent up to Dent hill is quite strenuous. The Youth Hostel Ennerdale is 6 miles far from Ennerdale and the walk along the lake is rocky. You normally won't make it to the YHA by leaving the train, which arrives in St. Bees at 2. p.m.Fleswick Bay
Portal St.Bees Church click on picture to enlarge
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In detail
In St. Bees is an old church (13th century) with a wonderful
portal. St. Bees is a tranquil small village with a beach, but nothing
depicts the beginning of the Coast to Coast Walk. Take the path to the
public beach, from there you see the way along the cliffs. It is going
up and down. After 50 minutes you reach Fleswick
Bay a wonderful beach with pebbles, put the toe in the Irish
Sea as Wainwright has proposed. Later you pass a lookout for watching the
sea birds sitting in the cliffs. The lighthouse is not very photgenic,
so go straight on. After two hours you reach two white houses, where you
have to say good by to the coast. A narrow paved road leads to Sandwith
and after some walking you reach a farm house. Behind the farm house you
might get lost, look for the tunnel under the railways. The Kissing gates
in this area are ennoying much too small for hikers with a backpack. At
Moor Row you can take an alternative route along a disused railway. Before
Cleator is a cricket field, if the club pub is open, they have good beer!
In Cleator is a small shop and the first pub along the c2c. After cleator
it is a long hauling way up to Dent Hill. At the top you have georgious
views to the sea and the foothills of the Lake District. A nice place to
pick up your tent. You descend to the Nannycatch Beck, but at the foot
of Dent hill the sign c2c shows the wrong direction !!
The valley of Nanny Catch beautiful, it ends in a paved road, you have
to go some steps to the right and then to the left otherwise you will end
in a farm. You follow the road to Ennerdale. The shop in Ennerdale is closed.
There is a hotel, but not much other accommodation.
Stage 2
Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite /Borrowdale 25
km / 15 miles YHA
Ennderdale, Black Sail, Honister House and Rostwaite, small shop in Rosthwaite
a middle hard stage, where you have to decide to take the alternative Route along the Hay Stacks.Ennerdale Water
View to Buttermere Lakes
YHA Blacksail click on picture to enlarge
in detail
the C2C leads to the lake Ennerdale
Water and then along its shore, where it is a bit rocky. At the end
of the lake you can follow the route, which goes along the west or east
side of the lake. At the left side you pass Ennderdale JYA. After the YHA
you can take the alternative route along the Haystacks, then you
have to make a tough ascent up to Red Pike. From top you have nice
views down to Buttermere lakes and the mountains around. Wainwright liked
this area so much, that he ordered to scatter his ashes there; his wish
was fullfilled after his death. I was too tired for the Hay Stacks. Following
the main route you come to the Black Sail YHA, which is beautiful
situated at the end of the valley surrounded by three mountains. After
Blacksail you have to ascend along the brook Loft Beck. From the
top you have wonderful views down to the Buttermere lakes. There
you meet again with the alternative route. Know it is a slow descent along
Honister
Slate quarries. Just behind the Honister buildings is a YHA (15 Pound.
A paved road leads down to Rostwhaite, where is another YHA
and pass the nice village Seatoller before.
Stage 3
Rosthwaite – Grasmere 15
km / 9,5 miles two YHA in Grasmere,
some
pubs, shops, one coop
In Wainwrights book it is one day to Patterdale. But usually hikers take two days and do the alternative route over the Helm Crack the first day and the exciting walk over Striding Edge the second day. I very recommend it , too.up to Greenup Edge
Helms crack
Grasmer click to enlarge
in detail
you can do a shortcut at Longthwaite to Stonewaite nehmen.
Stonewaite is a small pittoresque village. Ther you cross the bridge a
walk along the Langstrath Beck until it meets the Greenup Gill, which you
follow to the top. After the first summit there is another short but steep
ascent. At the top you reach a vaste upland moor plateau. The path is not
defined, os you can get lost, as I did. Later it is better defined and
if you follow this path it leads you automatically over the Helm Crack
alternative. It is a very nice walk with superb views, some up and downs
but it is not a difficult walk. After Helms Crack the path is desending
in spirals down to Grasmere.
Grasmer is a nice, but also a very touristic village.
Stage 4
Grasmere -Patterdale 16 km
/ 10 miles YHA in Patterdale,
This will be an exciting day, if you walk up to Hevellyl and from there along the striding Edge. That means some climbing, but you can cope with that, while you have tunning views. Be careful especially if it is wet and slippery. A highlight of the C2C-walk.Striding Edge from Helvellyl
Path along Tongue Gill (right side) click to enlarge
in detail
you leave Grasmer by passing the YHA Thorny How on a
small paved road until you cross the A 591 and walk about an mile on a
field path which divide at a brodge. You can walk at the right or left
side of "Little Tongue Gill". You have nicer views back to Grasmere, at
the left side, which means a harder ascent as the path descend at the end,
before it reunites with the right side path at a small waterfall. Some
hundred yards and you reach a wall, from where you have a nice view at
the lake "Grisedal Tarn" and at the path ascending up to up to "Hollywaggon
Pike". It is steep, but not as hard as it looks, nowadays there are steps
up the mountain. I would recommend to take the alternative route
along the striding edge. The other route along St. Sunday Crag offers nice
views, but isn't as adventurous as "Striding Edge". After reaching the
top of Hollywaggon pike the route is flat and pleasant along the ridge
up to "Helvellyl Summit". From there you have the superb views to Striding
Edge. Now it is a nasty clambering down to the ridge. Normally no problem,
but be careful, especially, when it is wet. You can walk atop of the ridge
or more comfortable at the path underneath the ridge. After Striding Edge
the path branches off down to Patterdale.
Stage 5
Patterdale – Shap 26 km /
16 miles Dormroom in the New
Ing Farm , COOP-Shop, Bus to Kendal and Penreeth
A long, but nice day, at which you leave the Lake District and zig zag through nice forest, parks and fields. Again enough possiblities to go lost. At the end you have the icing of the "Shap Abbey" ruins.Angel Tarn
Haywater Reserve
Shap Abbey click to large
in detail
after Patterdale there is a long ascent, at the top you
have to follow the path up to the left until you reach the lake Angel Tarn
(popular to wild camping). At the lake "Hayeswater" don't miss the branch
off to "Kidsty Pike". The wrong way straight on is the "High Straight",
an old Roman military route. The ledge "Kidsty Pike" looks more dramatic
from the distance at it is. After Kidsty Pike you descent to "Haywater
Reserve", a big water reservoir. It is a bit rocky when walking along
the artifical lake. Behind the dam you pass a forest with old trees
and reach a bridge. After the bridge the C2C is going through a very nice
park, then along a meadow until you reach a field of brooms. You have to
cross the wet broom field for going to "Rosgill Bridge", there is no path.
After Rosgill Bridge you walk along whitestone walls to another smaller
bridge. Behind this bridge you have to cross the meadow for going to a
deserted ruined Farm. Some yards along a paved road, the oublic path across
other meadows and then you reach the ruins of "Shap Abbay" (entrance
free). One more mile country road and you enter Shap.
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Shap
when entering town some meters to the left there is the
New Ing Farm. They have B&B and two dorm rooms (bed 12 pounds)
with showers and self serving kitchen on the floor. The Coop shop is some
yards away. A bus is going to Kendal ( only 2,85 pounds roundtrip (45 min),
a town with shopping mall and interesting museums, a good idea for a day
rest, especially when it is raining.
Etappe 6
Shap – Kirkby Stephen
33 km / 21 miles YHA (now private),
Bus and rail connection, shops
stone circle
upland moor
Smardale bridge click to enlarge
Hostel - -click to enlarge- |
in detail
after crossing the motorway and passing a quarry you pass Oddendale without visiting it. Behind Oddendale at the pen you have to cross the field for around 300 yards (no path) to find the prehistorical stone circle. You return to the path and walk for a long time through upland moors, breaked up from fields and meadows and two more stone circles. Wainrwight favoured another route than Stedman. At "Smardale Bridge" is a closed down railway in the distant is an old viaduct. A long ascent and descent to Kirkby Stephen at the end. Kirkby Stephen is a small pretty town, even with a Fish and Chips shop. The Youth Hostel, which is an old church, was recently sold to a young woman, who tries to have a living from. The hostel charge 17 pounds, has showers, a self serving kitchen, Internet if you ask. The owners lives around the corner, coming very late, a guest showed me a bed and I paid next day. All is a bit relaxed for the moment. |
Stage 7
Kirkyby Stephen - Keld 21
km / 13 miles only
some B & B, Bus 14.55 to Reeth, Grinton (YHA), Richmond
Today the C2C enters the Yorkshire Dales NP, up to the water shed to the "Nine Standards" and through upland moor (at dry weather)Nine Standards
Yorkshire Dale Moor
In Detail
a long ascent up to the water shed of Britain, where
are standing the ""Nine Standards", which are full of myths. Expect a very
heavy wind there. After thtat he path leads through moor, you will sink
in the marshland at wet conditions. Therefore there is an alternate bad
weather route, which has the disadvantage not to pass the Nine standards.
You might go back from the "Nine Standards" to the alternate pass, when
it is wet. After the moor you walk along the Swale Dale Valley to Keld.
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Keld
has only some houses. The YHA was sold and changed into
Keld Lodge, a hotel with restaurant and bar. B&B is 45 Pound/person
en suite and 35 pounds for a quite simple room without shower. No hot water
for tea and coffee for the rooms, as usual in other B&B's, you have
to order and sit in the restaurant.
Better conditions offer the Swale Farm in the neighboured
Muker
(25 Pounds B&B, dalesandvaleswalks.co.uk/swalefarm.html).
If you are early in Keld you might consider of taking the bus to Grinton
at 2.55 p.m (Mo-Sa) fors taying in the YHA and coming back without bagage
with the morning bus.
Bus (Line 30) to Reeth, Grinton, Richmond: northyorkstravel.info,
-Pennine Way- |
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Stage 8
Keld – Reeth 18 km / 11 Miles
YHA
(1,5 miles from Reeth in Grinton), Bus No.30 to Richmond,
small shops, Internet
There are two variants of the C2C, the more beautiful one along the valley Swale Dale or the historic more interesting through the moor along deserted industrie mining buildings. Wainwright choose the historical route, due to nice weather, not so interested in English history I choose the more beautiful one.Swale Dale
Falls
walls click to enlarge
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Drystone Walls |
In Detail: (Swale Dale variante)
a tip: take the right side of the river by following
the small path at the bridge before the waterfall. At the beginning it
is a bit scrambeling until the wonderful double waterfall, but the right
side is much prettier as people told me, who walked both sides. And it
was very nice (anyway at sunshine). Before Muker you can change the river
side. At Gunnerside Stedman and Wainwright have different directions, tried
the Stedman, but get lost, so I took the Wainwright variante again.
Reeth
nice village with small shops, a tourist information
and some pubs. In Buck Hotel is Internet not only for customers,
they charge 1,25 Pounds/30 Min. The YHA (17 pounds) is situated in
Grinton (1 mile from Reeth) and you have to ascend another 0,5 miles. The
YHA has showers, TV Room, a self serving kitchen but no Internet
for customers. It is in a castle like building.
Bus: Keld, Reeth, Grinton, Richmond (No.30)
Etappe 9
Reeth – Richmond 17 km /
10,5 Meilen YHA,
a nice day, not spectacular, nor many ups and downsMarrick Priory,
to the Applegarth Scar
Richmond castle
in Detail
the C2C pass Marrick Priority, an fomer nun priority.
You ascent to Marrick, known at the "nun steps" , that means 375 steps
to the abbey. After Marrick you pass field until you reach Marske. There
is the old Roman church "St. Edmund the Martyr", you can sign in the visitor
book. At the road crossing is the mansion "Marske Hall". You pass on fields
to the white cliffs of Applegarth Scar which you follow on its foot. At
the end you pass a forest and you will see Richmond Castle in the distance
when leaving the forest.
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Richmond:
biggest town on the C2C walk. A shopping mall center,
a tourist information, who arrange B&B, many restaurants, Fish and
Chips. Public Internet in the library
1,25 Pounds/~30 min. Busses to Darlington, where
is a train station.
Here ends my trip, the next stages have
to wait for the next time!
Stage 10
Richmond - Danby Wiske 17
km / 10,5 miles
Stage 11
Danby Wisk- Osmotherley 25km
/ 15 miles
Stage 12
Osmotherley – Clay Bank
20km / 12 miles
Stage 13
Clay Bank – Glaisdale 29
km / 18,5 miles
Stage 14
Glaisdale- Robin Hoods Bay 31
km / 20 miles
other Trails in the UK look there: Trails/UK,
Links:
Coast to Coast Walk: coast2coast.co.uk,
http://einklich.net/coast-to-coast,
Trails in UK: nationaltrail.co.uk,
walkingenglishman.com
(List of trails with links), ramblers.org.uk,
john
butler (end to end walk across/quer durch Britain)
Feedback, questions, critics, news, links, experiences are welcome!
mail me:
kambodschajoe@hotmail.com
Excuse my English, that is not my native language, thanks!