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Information
general, physical demands, seasons, time/direction/parts, going there and back, accommodation, food, signs/maps, packing list, mobile, Internet, other trails Links ask me? suggestions!
The GR 20 is one of the most fine, but also hardest high mountain walk in Europe
Deutsch Stages
Gr 20 North
1. Calenzana - Ortu Piobbu, 2. Ortu Piobbu - Carrozzu, 3. Carrozzu - Ascu, 4. Ascu - Tighjettu, 5. Tighjettu - Ciottulu, 6. Ciottulu - Manganu, 7. Managu - Petra Piana, 8. Petra Piana - Onda, 9. Onda - Vizzavona, Gr 20 South
10. Vizzavona- Capanelle, 11. Capanelle- Prati, 12. Prati - Usciolu, 13. Usciolu - Asinau, 14. Asinau - Paliri, 15. Paliri -Conca, beach days, Information: Hike in summer 2009.
General
the hike between Calenzana and Conca is about 180 km and usually it takes 15 days of hiking. It traverse Corse from the north west to the south east and it pass Vizzavone, which is situated in the centre of Corse. There ends the GR 20 North and follows the GR 20 South. GR is the abbreviation of "Grand Ranndonnées", that are the main long distance hikes in France. The No. 20 stands for Corse, which was the 20th. departement of France in the past.
Requirements
You must be fit, but normal physical condition is sufficient. But it is hard, I lost 10 kg body weight. You dont need mountaineer equipement or experience, even that at the 4th day some iron chaines secure the ascent or decent .It is hard because you go very often up and down, have to climb over small and bigger rocks. This is especially very strenous with a full backpack. But you need surefootedness and some good non slip sturdy hiking boots. You shouldn't carry more then 20 % of your weight for a long time. A plastic bottle for water supply (any disposal fits) is necessary. Calculate at least 1.5 Liters (better 3 liters) of water taking with you for avoiding dehydration at some stages.
Season:
Without mountain gear you can walk between Juli to mid of September. In June might be some rest of snow from mid of September the weather becomes getting unstable. If the rocks are wet and slippery there is a high slip danger, which could be fatal. From mid July to mid August is high season, but you will enjoy your treck anyway. I walked from the 20th August, the huts were getting more empty already.
Time schedule/direction/hiking parts:
Time schedule
usually there are 15 stages. Don't calculate doing less, unless you are certain, that are fitter than the average. At the first stages me and others took almost double the time as was predicted in the travel guides. Later I had to do a double etappe, which looked easy, but I had to walk from 6.20 a.m. to 9 p.m). The reserved sleeping place at the huts should pass to others when you arrive past 7. p.m. I don't know, if this break of contract is true.
The GR 20 North takes 9 days, the GR 20 South 6 days.Direction
It is your option, the only reason might be starting in the south early in the season (vice versa in the north in late season). 2/3 rd of people start from the north. It is strenous and beautiful at the beginning and also at the end, there are hardly differences.Hiking parts of the GR 20
You can to the GR 20 South or North to and from Vizzavona, where is a train station with connections to Bastia, Ajaccio and Calvi.
Motor roads cross the GR 20 at Haut Asco (3th day), Col de Vergio (6th day), Col de Bavella (penultimate day), but there are short trails to the next villages everywhere. You can hike some combination with the hiking trails Mar e Mar Nord, Centre and Sur, which all cross the GR 20.
Getting there and back
Getting there
The Gr 20 starts near Calvi in Calezana. There is an airport 10km from Calvi. There is no bus from the airport to town. Taxi charge 20-30 Euro tos Calvi and 45 Euros to Calezana or 45 Euros from Calvi to Calezana (12 km). In summer there should be a bus from Calvi to Calazena geben (7 Euros, look timetablecorsicabus.org).If you want to walk from the aiport to Calezana there is a shortcut :
I went parallel to the runway of the airport in direction of Calvi. You cross a bridge on a low ascent. On top you turn at the rocks barriers down to the end of the runway and cross a brook. It is some very short climbing. Also cross the river, which is run dry in summer and keep to the silos of a factory. At the factory is a street and you get to the roundabout to Calenza. From there it is about 7 km to Calenzana. I hitchhiked, a car stopped soon. My plane landed at noon and I was at 2.p.m in Calenzana.
Though it should be a 5 hrs walk, I didn't manage it to the first hut bevor dark (at 9.p.m. 20th August) because being untrained, backpack 17 kg, and heat.Bastia has another airport. The airport bus is 8 Euro, and there are busses to Calvi (16 Euro) and Conca. If you go to Calvi ask the driver to drop you off at the roundabout to Calenza for walking or hitchhiking the last 7 km. You can also go by train (16 Euros) to Calvi. The next station Casamozza is r
eached by walk in 3 km from the airport. Another airport is near Ajaccio. From there is a bus to Puerto Veccio (look getting back) and trains to Vizzavona and Bastia.Links: corsicabus.org bus- and train scheduleIn Calazena there is a Gite d' Etappe (hiker's accommodation). Staying there costs about 15 Euros (dorm) or 10 Euros per tent. The last purchases can be done in a small Spar-Shop. Some people start in the late afternoon after the heat, but camping or bivouacing is not allowed, but could hardly be controlled look: huts.
Back
the GR 20 ends in Conca. There is a bar but no restaurant in town and I hadn't seen a shop either. Out of town in direction Sainte Lucie de Porto Vecchio is the Gite d' Etape "La Tonelle". From there should be a Shuttlebus (corsicabus.org ) at 8.30 and 13.30 to Sainte Lucie de Porto Vecchio (10 Euro 1- 2 pers (together), from the 3rd. person each 4 Euro) or Porto Veccio (30 Euros (together) 1 - 3rd together, 4th and more person each 8 Euro). You only get the bus at
13.30 Uhr if you hurry, which is a pity. The alternatives are hitchhiking (which worked in my case) or walking (6 km) or staying in the Gite (if you dont want to walk or to hitchhike or if latter don't work).The bus Porto Veccio - Bastia stops in Sainte Lucie de Porto Veccio at the Bar "U Columbu"at 8.20 and 13.55 direction Bastia (23 Euros) (corsicabus.org ) or at 11.00 and 18.20 direction Porto Vecchio (Depart at Bastia 8:30 and 16 Uhr). Comnection to Bonifacio is Mon-Sat at 8.00, 13.00, 15.00, 19.00 , So- Festivals (public holidays) 8.00, 12 Uhr . Bonifacio - Porto Vechchio 6.30 (to Ajaccio), 7.30, 8.30 (to Ajaccio), 12.30, 16.15, 19.00. So- Festivals 8.30 (to Ajaccio) 14.00 to Ajaccio) 19.00. Porto-Vecchio Ajaccio 6.30, 8.00, 14.15 So-Feiertag 8.00, 14.30 no responibility for the information!
Return via Olbia in Sardinia
I took the bus from Porto Veccio to Bonifacio ( 4 times daily 9 Euros), stayed there overnight (12 Euros, camping close to town and took the ferry to Santa Teresa di Gallura in Sardinia ( 5 times daily 16-18 Euros). Don't walk into the marina but up to town. The tourist inforamtio is at the market place.rocks at Cabo Testa Sardinia
Bonifacio
From the central bus station are going busses nearly hourly (not at night) to Olbia. The cheaper compnay stops at the port and center. tickets ( 5 Euros) are avialable at tabacco shops. From the center of Bastia are going many busses (line 2 and 10 -last at 8 p.m, earliest at 7 or 8 a.m.-) to the airport (4 km) (tickets also in Tabacco Shos 0,90 cent (last at 8 p.m, earliest at 7 or 8 a.m.) The other bus company goes directly to the airport, the ticket are more expensive, but not much.
In Santa Teresa di Gallura is no camping place. The next is in Porto Pozzo (15 km Bus Olbia 1 €) and camping fee is 12 € pp.
Worth to see is Capo Testa (5 km) with its bizarre rock formations and some nice beaches (city bus or walking). Half way to Olbia is a mushroom shaped big rock in Arzachena (look for the sign "Fungo"). But more interesting is the 3.000 years old tomb situated at the road to Luogosanto (no Bus but 5 km walking, entrance 3 Euros with guidance (but you get in there without). Some meters above is an old "Nuragh" castle (entrance 3,50 Euros). Some more neolithic tombs are in the surroundings.
There was no (I asked three) restaurant, which allowed me to leave my backpack there for the visit at the tombs. Obviously the Sardes are not as helpful as the Italians from the mainland. On the other hand I could hitchhike back from the tombs.
Accommodation: parc-corse.org,
couchage bunk beds
Usciolu refuge
The administration tried a prebooking system, so things can change in future. Coming with the tent was no problem, also coming without prebooking for the bunk beds if there is enough place, which is in the off season (2009). There are 13 refuges or huts with bunk beds and camping places, which are in day walking distance. Bunk beds costs 10 Euros and camping 5 Euros. You get a receipt for staying overnight, you must show in case of controls of the Park Rangers. I never saw anyone controlling, but should be some sometimes.Wild camping and bivouacing is strictly forbidden in the National Park. I should be controlled and fined heavily. Making any fire result often in great hazards, it is persecuted even more, which is in my eyes also reasonable.
Excursus: If you can't proof your staying overnight at a hut, don't pay any horrible fines and dont show or give away under all circumstances your passport. Tell that it is in the car in La Spezia (Italian ferry town). Don't know if Rangers can act in France like police but due to European standards only police can take you to the next police station for proofing your identity in 24 hrs. Tell that you are poor, don't know much French and the rules, which you want to keep in future. Want to speak with your friend a lawyer first, before paying. Being polite, even make some jests, this helps in many situtions
Prebooking system
You pay via credit card and get mail about your booking at a special hut and a special day. You must make 12 bookings for the whole GR 20 but be awaare that you have to spare 2 days (not 1 day) for Vizzavona, there is no refuge and you can't prebook the Refuge Capannelle. A copy of the email is the booking proof, the refuge guardian doesn't have a booking list. If you come a day later or earlier there is no problem, if there is enough space.
If there are only some single places free you dont get your bunk bed (happened to a one day earlier walker), but that depends on the guardian. It is said that your place is handed to others after 7 p.m, but I am not sure, if that is true (mail me).
Calculate doing two stages only, if you are very experienced and also very fit. 8 km in the mountains can take longer time than 35 km on flat land.
For Vizzavona look there: Vizzavona,Link prebooking the huts: parc-corse.org,
Equipement of the refuges:
Bunk beds without covers and a recreation room with gas cooker, electric lights, pots, pans, crockery. In some were spoons, in other knifes missing. Fire for ignite the gas cooker was often missing, too. No Internet and no electric outlets for recharging batteries etc.
There isn't any food (even salt etc.) you have to bring for yourself. There is an natural outside water source (potable water) and toilets (but no toilet paper!) and cold showers. The guardians have a shop, where they sell bread, cheese, pasta, drinks and wine look for: food,
Food
Drinking
Water
Drinking enough water is essential for the strenous hikes in the heat. You need up to 5 liter per day. There are no water ressources at some places, so you have to carry water with you. Take at least one 1,5 liter plastic bottle ( disposal works) with you (important especially for the first three days).
Use any safe refilling possibility.in the evening
the local brewed rather bitter beer Pietra is also made from yeast and chestnut flour. Beer (also other brands) is quite expensive, a 0,5 liter can is charged from 5-7 Euro. More reasonable is the red wine, 1 Liter from a barrel 6-10 Euro. A can of Coke 0,33l from 3 - 3,50 €.Food
there are no real shop at the whole GR 20, neither in Vizzavona or Col del Balvella. Some kind of small shop are held by the refuge guardians. They live from selling goods, which are often delivered by helicopter. So the food is quite expensive: bread 2-3 €, a packet pasta 2-3 €, a tin of thuna 2 €, cheese or porc sausage 2-3 € per 100gr., 1 tomato (if available) 1 €. The shops in Vizzavona or Col de Balvella don't have a wider range of goods. They aren't cheaper, either. On the contrary the huts are mostly cheaper. Obviously the helicopter transport is not much responsible for the market prices.The guardians offer simple dinner menues and breakfast at the huts. A dinner is 15-20 € and a pot of pasta with gravy about 12,50 €.
Standard for the menus was some porc sausage slides or a vegetable soup for the first course, Maccaroni with gravy main course and a small piece of cheese or a an apple/orange for dessert. You are full after that. Breakfast was 6 Euros, far from English breakfast, but some baguette, some butter and jam and some Nescafe or a tea bag (look picture). In Haut Asco is a restaurant with a better menue (17 €).
If you eat at the huts, you spend around 50 Euros per day..The question is, if it is worth to carry about 2 kg food with you, for saving money. Convienience food in plastic bags on the base of rice or past, you have to fill up with boiling water is the best option. You get them in the discounter for less than 1 pound each and weight less than 200 gr. Take teabags and nescafe with you, buy the good Corse cheese and pork and some chestnut bread in the huts and you can come around.Menue Refuge Mori
for reading click on picture
breakfast click to enlarge
Signs
You don;t need any map. The Gr 20 is one of the best marked trail in the world. Every 50 m or less is a red white sign painted at rocks or trees. If you don't see any sign in 2 minutes you are definitely wrong. Return to the last sign. In difficult terrain the best option is marked every 2-5 meters, it is reasonable and safe to keep strict to the signs. The alpine alternatives are signed as well with two yellow crossbars (look above).GR 20 alpine alternative sign
The maps in the Topo Guide are sufficient, you even don't need them.Literature:
Topo Guide Randdonnee, GR 20, À travers la montagne Corse, ed. 2009, 15,20 € ( frz.),
Packing list
light tent - if bunk beds are not available, you lost or win a day
light sleeping back (no cover in the refuges), rain wear, pullover, shorts (you better hike with them), bathing suits, towel, plastic bag ( destore things at rain ),
usual clothes (you can wear clothes while hiking and others at the huts, so you can use them several times. Even it is hard to put on the old hiking stuff the first minutes )
sturdy mountain boots with gripping sole, sandals (for the huts ), two adjustable hiking sticks (unburden the knees at the asent and descent noticeable ),
toilett paper (not any at the refuges), matches/lighter (for the gas cookers, often not any in the huts ), torch/candle, sturdy plastic cup, cutlery,
sunprotect lotion, sunhat, 1-2 empty plastic bottles (for drink water), teabags, Nescafé, convienient food.
Passport , copies of the refuge reservations, spare batteries for your digital camera and mobile (there is electricy in the huts, but no sockets ).
You dont need: : any cooker, pots and plates,to top
Mobile , Internet etc.
There is no Internet at the whole Gr.20. In Bonifacio and Porto Veccio is a Internetcafé, which ask 5-6 Euros/hourly.
The reception for your mobile work only at some places. It is sometimes also a question how good is your mobile.
other hiking trails
there are more rather popular and well signed trails with refuges in Corse. They are hardly less strenous, even the differences of altitudes aren't so much. That are following trails
Mare e Monti Nord Calenzana to Cargese, 11 day, signs in orange,. You can swim two times in the sea. Water must be carried with you.
Mare e Monti Sud Propriano to Porticcio,
Mare e Mare Nord Moriani Corte to Cargese, 12 days, easier,
Mare e Mare Centre Ghisonaccia to Porticcio/Ajaccio, 7 days,
Mare e Mare Sud Porto Vecchio to Propriano, 5 Tage,
Sentier Corte - Ile Rousse
Links:
Huts/Refuges: parc-corse.org,
Transport: corsicabus.org,
other GR 20 sides: gr-infos.com/gr20.htm ( French. with map)
Tour guide: ffrandonnee.fr (Topo Guide series)
StagesGr 20 North Calezana - Vizzavona
The GR 20 North is more alpine than the southern part and it is said that it is more strenuous to walk, but more beautiful, too. But I think in all aspects there is hardly any difference, both parts have beautiful scenery and are strenous to hike.Stage 1
Calenzana - Ortu di u Piobbu (alt 1520 m), 6-9 hrs., 10 km, 1.300 m up, down 10 m water: 1-2 sources only at the first partIn Calezana is one Gite d' Etappe and a small Spar shop. The GR 20 begins at the church and both places are signposted. The GR 20 starts together with the Mare e Monti Trail. First the trail is going up steadily but on a comfort treck with superb views back to Calezana and the bay of Calvi. After a while the path is wet and you reach a small source, which trickles out of a hose pipe. Fill your water bottle, there are no better sources later. Later you reach the turn off of the Mare et Monti Trail. Some meters downwards and you walk on the same level to a brook, which you pass and ascend to a plateau, which is a superb viewpoint. Then in Zick- Zack for a longer time upwards to another plateau. This would be a perfect biwak point, but its not allowed. After that some hundred meters down through a forest and then the climbing on rocks started. Not much and short until you reach the third plateau. From there you walk to the left at the same level to the first hut in about one hour.start in Calenzana
view back to Calvi click to enlarge
Dont underestimate the first stage. It took me 9 hrs instead of 5,5 hrs written in some travel guides.alternative routes
You can start in the south of Bonifatu, where is a Gite d' Etape by following the Tra Mar e Monti. The ascent is easier, but I think you don't win much, if GR 20, then the real one from the beginning. And so hard is the first ascent neither. Less recommendable is to take the shortcut to the Spasimata Gorge for sparing the 2nd stage. The views from the saddle at the 2nd day were one of the best of the whole trail.
Stage 2
Ortu di u Piobbu - Carrozzu (alt 1570 m) 7-10 hrs, 8 km, up 680 m, down 1000 m Water: diffcult 1-2 sources only at the ascentA long and strenous, but later also one of the most exciting sceneries of the GR 20. First you hike some minutes up, than some time down to a source. Then a long ascent to a saddle. Almost at the top you turn to the last and past a trickling source. After a short Zig Zag ascent you reach the saddle and a platform with gorgious views to the bizarre mountain crags. But now, there is more climbing up to the left. Another viewpoint from where you see the path and the jag between two peaks you must go through. But you have to go one more hour left and right of the ridge until you decent more easily for 1-2 hours. The hut is situated in the woods.Cinto massive click to enlarge
Stage 3
Carrozzu - Ascu Stagnu (alt 1422 m) 5-7 hrs, 6 km, up 800 m, down 650 m Water: no sources
The walk is less strenous this day. But there aren't any safe water sources here. Soon you get at suspension bridge over the Spasimata river, then you walk on big granite plates up the valley. Maybe slippery and dangerous at rain. Before you end at the top you have to turn left at the same level first and then further on up until you reach the lake Muvralla. It shouldn't be allowed to bath here, which is refreshing, but I don't know. There were no signs. Drinking the water shouldn't be save either, but that isn't sure either, too. Others hadn't any problems. After the lake it is going up for another half an hour to a jag. From there you have to go some meters to the right and then to the left (dont loose the path here!) up to another jag, which is some meters higher as the first one. From there you see already Haut Asco downwards, it looks quite near, but it is another 1-2 hrs walk down.Spasimata gorge click to enlarge
Haut Ascu is situated at the motor road D 147 . The Refuge has a shop and four bedded rooms. Opposite of the refuge is hotel with restaurant and terrace. The menue (17 Euros) was ok, something different then pasta. The menue was at 7.30 p.m and you must preorder it at least 1 hrs before. Try the pastis, here it was only 1,50 Euro (2009)
Stage 4
Ascu Stagnu - Tighjettu (alt 1683 m), 5-7 hrs., 10 km, up 1150, down 880 m water: 1 brook before the cirqueThe infamous caldera Cirque de Solitude, which is secured at some short parts of the descent and the ascent with chians, isn't as hard as its reputation. It isn't harder than the second day at all. No reason to get weak knees.The hike starts comfortable slowly and gradually up a valley through forest. At the end of the valley you can take water at a brook for the last time at this stage. Soon you get to the saddle where you can see the hikers climb down the 200m descent at the Cirque de Solitude. At the other side eft you have to ascent about the same distance (35 meters more). Here is a small ladder before two following parts of chains. Good climbers even dont' need them. After that the descent to the refuge Tighjettu seams peanuts, but careful, you can hurt your ankles by scratching over the rocks. Often people hurt at easier terrain by loosing concentration. You can spent a nice bathing afternoon at the pothole basins of the river near the hut. The refuge was ok and it wasn't ugly as it is called in one of the travel guides for prefering the private refuge "Bergeries de Vallone", half an hour downwards, which are nice, but lacks the potholes for bathing. If you get very quick through the Cirque de Solitude you can do a double stage, but I wouldn't recommend that, because you would face another long walk the next day.Cirque de Solitude click to enlarge
Stage 5
Tighjettu- Ciottulu (alt 1991 m) 4-6 hrs., 13 km, up 620 down 200 water: no problemThe least trenuos stage of the GR 20 to the highest situated refuge. You went not much demanding through forest by crossing two brooks in a wide bend. After the forest two small refreshing bathing spots. From there it is a steeper ascent over rocks to the saddle. Another easy walking bend to the right and you see the Ciotullu refuge already. It has a terrace with superb views down to the valley. If you come early, you can consider to stay at one of the bathing bassins 1-2 hrs downward. Some people has bivaouaced there, even it is not alowed in the national park. But you sitting at the veranda with the superb views in the evening. The next stage is very long.view from the Ciotullu Hütte click to enlarge
Stage 6
Ciottulu - Manganu (alt 1601 m), 7-10 hrs., 26 km, up 620 down 1050 Wasser: no problemThe longest, but easy going stage. It is also the stage of the most varied scenery. You descend quickly from the Ciottulu Refuge downwards and hike along the Golo brook, which has some superb swimming potholes. The nicest natural swimming pool (about 1,5 hrs) is at the second crossing of the Golo brook. Some meters further comes the Bergerie Bergeries da Radul, where you get Crepes in the evening or some delicous goat milk (2 € small pot). The 1,5 hrs walk through forest to the Hotel-Restaurant Castel d' Verghio is the most boringng part of this day. The hotel Castel d' Verghio has rooms about 60 €, (dorms I don't know, mail me!) and a quite awful camping ground in the forest. Old ski lifts shows the remains of a given-up ski resort. In the restaurant is a small shop, the daily dinner menue ( from 23 €) isn't cheap, but should be good. You follow the road by passing the hotel for some meters and than you turn right to a quite comfortable and easy going path through forest. This ends after an hour and the GR 20 ascends suddenly in steep zigzags to the saddle of the Bocca San Pedru (1452m) where is a small chapel. You ascent a small peak to the left and then there is another more boring ascent in serpetines along the ridge to another saddle (Bocca da Rete). This takes 2 hrs. From the Bocca San Pedru begins the green gras land of the Lac de Nino, you reach soon. Horses are grazing on the spongy gras banks. All is quite picturous, a place to make a longer rest. There is also a source at the lake. After the lake there is some nasty hiking downwards through boulders (1 hrs) until you reach a superb elflock-stricken like forest with crippled trunks and trees. From here it takes only half an hour to the Bergeries da Vaccaghia. From here you see the refuge Manangu (more 45 min.).Lac de Nino click to enlarge
Stage 7
Manganu - Petra Piana (alt 1842 m), 7-9 hrs., 13 km, up 870 down 630, water: enough sourcesa classic strenous walk with superb views down to the lakes Capitellu and de Melu. You ascent first to a caldera from which you ascent steeply (you pass a source, use it!) to the niche of the ridge, the Breche de Capitellu in 2225m, from where you have the above scenic views to the two lakes Lac Capitellu und Lac de Melu. Then you limb uo and down along the mountain ridge for about 2 hrs until you reach the turn off down to Corte at the Bocca Soglia in 2206m. You don,t decend but turn to the left and walk further on less or more at the same altitude. Here are more brooks and water sources. At the end you have to pass quite a big boulder field and shortly afterwards you zigzag steeply up to the Bocca Rinosa. At top there is some 40 min pleasant flat walking until Bocca Muzella. From here you descent gradually to the left until the pass turns off another time to the left and from there it is a more steeply descent to the hut.Lac Capittelu click to enlarge
Stage 8 alpine variante
Petra Piana - Onda (alt 1430 m) ,4-6 hrs., 13 km, up 500 down 900 ( valley route) water: no water at the alpine varianteyou have the choice of the red-white -official- valley route or the alpine variante, which is signed out by two yellow bars. I took the alpine variant, which is more challenging and should also been shorter in distance and time and should have less differences in altitudes. But the latter is relative, the alpine variante means a lot up and down and a lot scrambling. So I doubt that it is shorter in time. You can't miss the turn off, which is well signed out some hundred meters after you have followed the red white markers. Also the following variante is as good marked as the GR 20. The advantage of the alpine variante are the views.walking on the ridge click to enlarge
The valley variante descends steeply down to the valley you follow through forest. You pass some really nice swimming bassins, which is a reason for the choice of this option. At the end the path asends more again steeply to the hut. The Bergeries de Tolla are closed, anyway the old couple don't prepare their famous meals anymore.
Etappe 9
Onda - Vizzavona, low lewel route 5-7 hrs., 10 km, up 700 down 1200 water: first no water, later no problemetoday a more leisure hike. After the Onda hut you cross the Mare a Mare Nord, which is signed with orange markers. Then you climb up rather steeply to the Punta Murella but it is less scrambling. From there you walk some minutes to the left and reach the turn off to Mt. d' Oro, you have another choice of an alpine variante.natural pools Cascades Anglais
Vizzavona station and restaurants to the left and right click to enlarge
Alpine variante: the 300m up ends to a quite impressive peak. The descend is hard and you miss the rapids and bassins of the Cascades d'Anglais. So some hikers left their backback without valuables at the turn off, climb the peak and return to descend the red white route.
It is a long descent down by aproaching and following the river in the valley. At a wooden bridge begins the rapids of the Cascades d' Anglais, which stretch down for some time (not single sight, I thought previously) and also form many bassins, where people enjoy swimming in it. It is a popular spot. At the end there is a snack bar, the food is like the beverage more pricey than good. From here you have an easy 10 min.walk along the gravel road to the localisation of Monte d'Oro. There is the old hotel, but next to the hotel the Gite d' Etape with very simple rooms from 11 Euros (half pension 30 Euros), which are in an adjoining building with cold showers. Rooms to reasonable prices with hot showers are in the main building. There you get at the bar Pizza (7,50 Euros, e.g. four kinds of cheese). The road to Vizzavona takes a 30 min walk one way, but there is no important reason to go there as to see it and return back.In Vizzavona there is hardly nothing more than the photo above shows. Another restaurant is at the position of the photographer. Behind the left station building is an ugly camping place, in the station is a very small shop, which is not cheaper than the refuges. Also the range of goods are not wider than at the refuges. No baguettes or newspapers, so it was in the afternoon. Staying overnight in a bunk bed dorm is charged standardised with 34 Euros, that includes a simple breakfast and a meal (not a menue). A simple single room starts from 70 Euros. You can eat in the three restaurants, more pasta than French home style cooking as usual. The Gite d' Etape at the Hotel Mont d' Oro seems to ahve a better price-performance ratio, but I can't vouch for that.
Trip to Corte or Ajaccio corsicabus.org,
From Vizzavona are going several trains daily to Corte and Ajaccio. If there is enough time a break of your journey is a good idea here. The one way fare to Corte is 5 Euros. Corte has all kind of accommodation (tent, Gite, pension) and is quite interesting with its castle and crooked alleys. There is also a supermarket and there should be a pricey Internet Cafe ( 6 € per hour), too. Going there in the afternoon and returning the next day at noon is possible, as the next stage is rather short. I would do it so the next time. Ajaccio is bigger, but less interesting, except for bathing at one of the nearby beaches maybe.
Gr 20 South Vizzavona - Conca
Some say the GR 20 South is less interesting but easier and less strenuous. That is not true. Both parts are equal strenous and have both beautiful parts, there is hardly a difference.
Stage 10
Vizzavona - Capannelle, 5 hrs., 13 km, up 860 m down 200 m; water: no problem, a source before Bocca Palmenti, after that brooksA short and not demanding unspectacular stage with nice views. You can't prebook the small refuge Capanelle. You also get there from the Hotel Monte d' Oro (I took this way). You walk some ten meters in direction Vizzavona and turn right at a hall where is a sign to the Gr 20 and another to "Sentier de Femme". You follow the signs "GR 20" (later don't follow "Sentier") on the same altitude level until another sign "Gr 20" shows another direction. Leading signs are also blue and yellow marker points. You pass a wider brook and some hundred meters later it is ascending in a zigzag through dense forest. after a flat walk you reach the red and white marked GR 20 again (from Vizzavona also forest path). It is a short ascend up to the saddle of Bocca Palmenti. Form here it descends only a little and you stay on the same altitude for a long time through forests. It is a rather comfortable hiking there. After passing the Bergerie Cardu and later Scarpacceghje (no snacks or drinks) you must ascend rather steeply for about half an hour. After a short flat part you reach a car road. The GR 20 turns some meters to the right and leave the tarred road to the left for descending to the Refuge Capannelle. About 100 m from the refuge the Gr 20 cross the tarred road again and at that crossing is a nice Gite d' Etape with Restaurant, outdoor terrasse and a small shop. Because it is some scrambling after leaving the tarred road, I would use the tarred road (turn on left, instead right) to the Gite d' Etape.a comfortable forest path click to enlarge
If you start very early you might make a double stage to the refuge Prati. I did it, but walked from 6.30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and reached the hut in the dark. You also can walk only to the private refuge Bocca di Verdi ( bunk bed with hot shower 13 Euros ). But then the stage, which is aready hard, is extended with another straining 2 hrs ascent to the refuge prati. I would recommend only walk to the refuge Capanelle and would take the alpine variante instead of the more boring valley variante to the refuge Prati the next day.
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Stage 11
Capannelle - Prati low level variante (alt 1820 m), 6-8 hrs., 14 km, up 860 m down 600 m ,water: no problemat the Gite you must decide for the yellow marked alpine variante or valley red white marked route. I'd recommend the alpine tour, the valley route, I did, was a bit boring.before Prati at noon click to enlarge
The valley route leads you a little bit down to the Bergeries d' Traghjetes, shortly before them you turn off to the left (don't miss the path there) and you reach after 20 minutes the car road at a bridge across a river again. The path turns off the road and you go for a long time on comfortable forest way without any ups and downs to a clearing with old crippled trees. After a short walk you reach another clearing which is called "Plateau de Gialgone". There the alpine variante joins the red white marked GR 20 again. It is descending for about an hour to the plank bridge crossing the "Marmano" River. Behind the bridge are very old pine tree giants. A hour moderate up and down to a parking and rest area. Another 15 minutes to "Col de Verde", where is the private Refuge and restaurant San Pedru (, rooms, bunk beds (13 Euro, includes hot shower).
For the Paliri refuge it takes another 2 hrs ascent. It is quite steep, but without much scrambling. The first 20 minutes part is on a wide foreth gravel road, then a long zigzag steep up, some more flat terrain with moderate up and downs, another steep zigzag through forest until you reach open area and had to ascend the last part to the anticline. From here you have fantastic views. The last 20 minutes to the hut are very easy. I found the way also in the dark.
The alpine variante pass the peak of Mt. Renoso (2345m). It takes 2 hrs more, is not demanding for the ascent, but has some strenous parts with scrambling over rugged rocks. Don't do this route at bad weather.to top
Stage 12
Prati - Usciolu (alt 1750 m), 6-8 hrs., 12 km, up 700m down 800m, water: 2 sourcesanother hard stage with a lot of scrambling. The path switchs from one side of the crest to the other. After more then 3 hrs of scrambling you reach a flat plateau, where s the GR 20 cross the trail "Monte a Mare Centre". Some 15 minutes comfortable hike until you reach a sign to a neighboured source. Afte a short walk it is ascending rather steeply in serpetines to the 500m higher situated Bocca di Furmucula. In the middle a short flat part, then another zigzag up and some more ridge walk scrambling. Not very difficult, but you must keep attention, not to fall. At long last a more gentle descent until you see the short, but another steep descent to the refuge.view down to surrounding villages click to enlarge
Stage 13
Usciolu - Asinau (alt 1530 m), 7-9 hrs., 13 km, up 880m down 1100m, only water in the middle partsToday a very nice varied stage with climbing of Mt. Alcudina 2134 m. At first the usual rugged scrambling at the right and left side of a crest. Then it descends to the plateau Plateau de Coscione. It is a very nice scenery there, you might image of turning the unicorn or the knight on a horse around the corner. You cross some brooks, after you reach another rope bridge. Then the ascent to the peak of Mt. Alcudina, first through forest, there is also the last water source for the day. Some minutes after the source you pass the ruins of the old refuge I Pidinelli, where is camping permitted. The ascent of Mt. Alcudina is steep, but not demanding. At the top is a fallen cross of the summit in concret. After that an unpleasant knee straining descent to the hut. Take care!crest walking
Plateau Coscione - fairy tale forest- click to enlarge
Stage 14
Asinau - Paliri (alt 1055 m) alpine variante 3 km, up 650 m down 900m, water: no problemhalf an hour descending until you reach a brook with another nice natural swimming pool. Jumping in means a nice freshing up for the ascent of the alpine variante. Even you are tired of climbing up and down, I would recommend taking this way. The scenery is diversed from the others and is very fine. The low level route means also some scrambling and is longer. There is only one ascent which is secured with a chain, if you have managed the others that will be no problem. The turn off to the alpine variante is also well signed out after one hour walk. It means a steep zigzag thorugh forest until you reach the plateau with the Ballvella towers. You swerve around some and after that you reach the chain secured part, which looks more difficult from the distance, then it is in fact. Another short ascent and then an one hour descent to Col de Bavella. There stands a trashy Madonna statue and further down some restaurants. It is all quite pricey, the same the small shop with its small range of goods. Behind the restaurant in the bend the GR 20 continus on a wide gravel path. Then a steep ascent and a longer descent to the refuge Paliri. All takes 2 hrs from Col de Bavella. Fill up your water bottle about 200m before the hut, there is no another drinking water resource at the refuge.Balvella Massive click to enlarge
(last) Stage 15
Paliri (alt 1055 m) - Conca, 6-8 hrs., 13 km, up 200 m, down 1000 m; water: no problemAt the end one more superb stage. The first two hours is a pleasure walk through the Balvella area with superb views (look photo above top/right ) At the end of the panorama walk there is a short but steep ascent and the scenery changes into from erosion in Colani style roundly formed rocks and big rock plates. After that leads a hollow way down to the small river Pinzuta, which you cross, you walk a bit parallel to and at the second crossing there are two pools (you can't miss) where you could take your last bath. Now the last ascent and then 1-2 hrs boring walk more or less on the same altitude level with views to the sea. At last there is a jag which shows you like a portal the end of the GR 20. Some 45 minutes down and you reach the outskirts from Conca. Only a handwritten sign shows the start and end of the GR 20.Colani scenery
from here only downwards click to enlarge
Conca
you walk down a village street for about 15 min. and reach a bar without Restaurant. In the town is a big church, but I haven't seen any shops. You leave quickly the village in direction Sainte Luicie de Port Vecchui and pass the Gite d' Etape "La Tonelle". From there should be a shutle bus to Saint Lucie de Port Vecchio at 8 a.m and 1.30 p.m (corsicabus.org ) . The Gite somehow wasn't looking inviting. It is a 6 km easy but boring walk, hitch hiking worked in our case.
Beach days
Pinarellu
the nearest beach 5 km from Sainte Lucie de Porto Veccio. No Bus, walking or hitch hiking. The first camping place is, when you enter Pinarellu. If you turn right and walk one km along the coast, turn right and walk another 1 km you reach the camping place California ( 14 Euro person with a small tent ), which should be nicer then the place in the village. It is situated directly at the sandy beach (hardly shadow, some at the seperated nudist area).The camping place has a restaurant with local prices. Food (also Pizza) were ok, also the sanitary system and showers.beach Pinarellu
other beaches
the beaches at Faves aren't recommended much. Another suberb beach should Roccapina, with a small camping place (bus 42 km in direction to Ajaccio and another 4 km walk)to top
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